Spelade
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We discuss holiday packing and capsule wardrobes, and just what makes certain people’s style so visually compelling.
The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Galina: https://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989
Issue 1 of Fashion Studies: https://www.fashionstudies.ca/issue-1
Alison Matthews David, Fashion Victims (2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-victims-9781472577740/ -
We talk about the Archaeology of Fashion Film conference and Queer Eye.
Archaeology of Fashion Film: http://archfashfilm.arts.ac.uk/
Stella Scott, The Performers (2017): https://www.stellascott.net/the-performers
Isaac Lock, Black (2018): http://somesuch.co/directors/isaac-lock/reel/black/
Vitoria de Mello Franco, Divinas (2018): https://www.nowness.com/story/divinas-victoria-de-mello-franco
Queer Eye (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7259746/ -
We discuss the wonders of pre-code film Finishing School, and think about Edie Beale’s fashion sense as seen in the new film That Summer.
George Nichols Jr. & Wanda Tuchock (directors), Finishing School (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025117/
Women Film Pioneers: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/ccp-wanda-tuchock/
Göran Olsson (director), That Summer (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7057306/ -
We discuss World War I London society fashions as seen in Tatler and The Sketch, and the fashion illustration events at The Courtauld Institute.
Photographs of Bertram Park: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person.php?LinkID=mp05646&role=art&displayNo=60
Fashion Illustration Now (15 June 2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/fashion-illustration-now
Kenneth Paul Block: https://www.societyillustrators.org/kenneth-paul-block
Kenneth Paul Block exhibition at mfa Boston (2015-16): https://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/kenneth-paul-block
La Mode en Peinture (published 1982-c.1990): https://www.instagram.com/p/BMtb1RihNpq/?hl=en -
We discuss looking at Antonio and Bouché drawings and the intricacies of cataloguing fashion in the museum.
Gray M.C.A: https://www.graymca.com/
Velwyn: http://www.velwyn.com/
Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/
What Do We Want From Fashion Writing And Imagery Now?: https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/what-do-we-want-from-fashion-writing-and-imagery-now -
We discuss the fascination of fancy dress and the wonders of fashion photography up close.
Weldon's Fancy Dress Catalogue (1920s): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/536070.html
A Dress for Spring (2015): http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/dress-spring/
Screen Archive South East - Fashion: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/
V&A Prints & Drawings Study Room: https://www.vam.ac.uk/info/study-rooms#prints-drawings-study-room
Martin Munkacsi at ICP: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/martin-munkacsi?all/all/all/all/0 -
We discuss photographs of mock weddings and cross-dressing and the notorious 1973 ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show.
Under Cover: A Secret History of Cross-Dressers: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibition/under-cover-secret-history-cross-dressers
Sebastien Lifshitz: http://sebastienlifshitz.com/
Bambi (Marie-Pierre Pruvot): https://www.bambi-officiel.com/tout-sur-bambi/
Versailles '73: American Runway Revolution (2013): http://www.versailles73movie.com/
Review of Robin Ghivan, The Battle of Versailles (2015): https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/books/review/the-battle-of-versailles-by-robin-givhan.html -
We discuss the intricacies of dress as passing and dress as performance.
Passing: Fashion in American Cities (2018): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities
Modes pratiques: https://www.modespratiques.fr/special-issue.html
Allyson Hobbs, A Chosen Exile (2014): http://www.hup.harvard.edu/catalog.php?isbn=9780674368101
Jennie Livingston, Paris is Burning (1990): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0100332/ -
We discuss the upcoming Conference on fashion and passing, and Raf Simons' references to Christiane F. in his latest collection.
Passing: Fashion in American Cities conference, 5 May 2018, Courtauld Institute of Art, London:
https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/passing-fashion-american-cities
Nella Larsen: http://brbl-archive.library.yale.edu/exhibitions/cvvpw/gallery/larsen.html
Georg Simmel, Metropolis and Mental Life (1903/1950): http://www.blackwellpublishing.com/content/bpl_images/content_store/sample_chapter/0631225137/bridge.pdf
Fatberg at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/fatberg
Raf Simons, Fall 2018 collection: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/raf-simons
Patrik Sandberg on Raf Simons' show for Dazed (8/2/18):
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/38937/1/last-nights-raf-simons-aw18-new-york-show-was-all-about-drugs -
We discuss interviewing family members (and others) for fashion history, and the wonders of Bonham’s jewellery sales.
Exploring 20th Century London website: http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/
'All about my mother' - article in sisterMag (2012): https://tinyurl.com/y6upplox
Instagram account of Bonhams' jewellery department: @bonhamsjewels
Instagram account of Emily Barber: @gemilybarber -
We discuss why we think the latest Valentino haute couture collection was designed to be drawn and the women photographers that captured Weimar fashions.
Valentino Spring 2018 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-couture/valentino#review
Richard Haines Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/?hl=en
Richard Brody on People On Sunday (1930): https://www.newyorker.com/culture/richard-brody/movie-week-people-sunday
Frieda Riess or Die Riess: http://www.dasverborgenemuseum.de/exhibits/exhibit/die-riess-44-en
Yva: http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/20704/1/yva-shattered-vision
Rudolf Schlichter: http://www.gseart.com/Artists-Gallery/Schlichter-Rudolf/Schlichter-Rudolf-Biography.php
Mila Ganeva - Women in Weimar Fashion (2008: https://boydellandbrewer.com/women-in-weimar-fashion.html -
We discuss fashion’s fascination with nature and related ethical issues, prompted by the new V&A exhibition Fashioned From Nature.
V&A exhibition: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/fashioned-from-nature
Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF: http://sustainable-fashion.com/
Fashion Revolution: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/
Emily Manning on Katharine Hamnett for i-D.vice: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/3kqjzn/why-fashions-eco-warrior-katharine-hamnett-is-kanyes-main-muse -
We discuss exhibitions that show Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaia’s purity of vision.
Jil Sander exhibition: http://www.museumangewandtekunst.de/en/museum/exhibitions/jil-sander-present-tense.html
Azzedine Alaïa website: http://www.alaia.fr/en/home.html#
Vogue's review of the show (2018): https://www.vogue.com/article/azzedine-alaia-je-suis-couturier -
We discuss gender binaries and barbershops, plus the art of flower making.
Lauren Sherman, 'For Women, Hairstyles at the Barbershop', New York Times (11/12/2013): https://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/12/fashion/For-Women-Hairstyles-at-the-Barbershop.html
F. Scott Fitzgerald, 'Bernice Bobs Her Hair' (1922): https://web.archive.org/web/20050830054426/http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/
Bassano Studio: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/group/18241.html
Flower Makers Museum: https://www.visit1066country.com/things-to-do/attractions/flower-makers-museum-p411891
The Lost Art of Flower Making (Museum of London blog post 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/lost-art-flower-making
Thomas Bloor, Last of the Flower Makers (1997): https://archive.org/details/lotfm -
We discuss Rosamond Bernier’s extraordinary life, and wonder about pockets.
Watch a clip of Rosamond Bernier’s lecturing at The Metropolitan Museum here: http://www.rosamondbernier.com/
Leslie Camhi’s 2011 article on Rosamond Bernier for Vogue:
https://www.vogue.com/article/rosamond-bernier-the-flaming-debutante
Rebecca's article about pockets for Cos: https://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/On_Pockets
The Art of Manliness' take on man's pockets (2017): https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/05/20/a-mans-pockets/
Danica Ollerova for Pause on men wearing handbags (2017):
http://pausemag.co.uk/2017/04/will-men-start-rocking-womens-bags-this-season/
Jake Woolf for GQ on whether man purses are a thing (2016):
https://www.gq.com/story/mens-shoulder-bag-man-purse-bag
Some 19th century skirts with pockets at the Museum of London:
https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/82094.html
https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81437.html
https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/81519.html -
We discuss Victor Stiebel’s tips for women, backstage beauty and the new Obama portraits.
LCF Victor Stiebel Archive: https://vads.ac.uk/collections/LCFVS.html
Beauty Instagrams:
@patmcgrathreal
@beautyisboring_
@violette_fr
@morgane_martini
@enywhitehead
Doreen St. Félix on Amy Sherald's Michelle Obama portrait: https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-mystery-of-amy-sheralds-portrait-of-michelle-obama
Vinson Cunningham on Kehinde Wiley's Barrack Obama portrait:
https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-appearances/the-shifting-perspective-in-kehinde-wileys-portrait-of-barack-obama
