Avsnitt
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Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget-club
👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.
Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing
(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams
(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead
(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)
(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers
(00:30:08) – The Needles
(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil
(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins
(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time
(00:49:59) – The Winnebago
(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds
(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch
(01:05:11) – City of Rocks
(01:10:24) – Drawing the line
(01:16:12) – Old school bolting
(01:24:40) – Riggins
(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing
(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing
(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym
(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days
(01:43:13) – Listen to your body
(01:46:17) – Respect your body
(01:47:50) – What excites Tony
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Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget-club
👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.
Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’
(00:05:13) – Rock Stars
(00:07:26) – Adam as a kid
(00:15:14) – Unfinished business
(00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects
(00:23:50) – Untapped potential
(00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As
(00:31:17) – The Imhotep project
(00:39:55) – Training for long boulders
(00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing
(00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado
(00:48:40) – Patxi training
(00:51:07) – Modern comp routes
(00:54:29) – Feelings about comps
(00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps
(01:05:41) – The Olympics
(01:07:40) – Speed climbing
(01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall
(01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics
(01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock
(01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career
(01:32:50) – The monster within
(01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes
(01:38:50) – 8a at 80
(01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale
(01:41:59) – Finger size
(01:45:09) – Hugo
(01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things
(01:48:15) – What’s next
(01:49:21) – Wrap up
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Saknas det avsnitt?
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Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Tindeq:
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didier
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island
(00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching
(00:06:30) – The Air Force
(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time
(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force
(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly
(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing
(00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training
(00:35:20) – India
(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids
(00:53:54) – Sofia
(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile
(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn
(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer
(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength
(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing
(01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout
(01:26:36) – Example training week
(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention
(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process
(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself
(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions
(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late
(02:05:28) – How to find your passion
(02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project
(02:22:37) – Future plans
(02:24:02) – Favorite training music
(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes
(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual
(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type
(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016
(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film
(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations
(02:35:59) – Photography
(02:38:04) – Patagonia
(02:38:54) – Follow your dream
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Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.
Maui Nui Venison:
mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET
The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ron
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:01) – Fish sticks
(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other
(00:15:08) – Threads & identity
(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules
(00:31:15) – Follow your heart
(00:43:32) – Vision Quest
(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing
(01:01:02) – The essence
(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force
(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering
(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers
(01:30:39) – Flow & precision
(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line
(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom
(01:46:31) – Le Blonde
(01:48:19) – Motivation
(01:54:04) – A good feeling
(01:56:24) – Mother Earth
(01:57:37) – A personal path
(01:58:49) – Wrap up
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Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic and selfishness of competitions, eating disorders, becoming adventurous, trips with Yuji Hirayama, meeting her husband James Pearson, discussing hard things with your kids, the color yellow, naming emotions, gentle feminism, and much more.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget
👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne
Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caroline-ciavaldini
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:32) – Growing up in La Réunion
(00:07:14) – How Caro started climbing
(00:09:25) – Early competing
(00:14:03) – Her mom’s suicide
(00:21:29) – Mental coaching
(00:25:27) – Magic & selfishness
(00:37:42) – Competition vs. outdoor skills
(00:46:18) – Eating disorders & food obsession
(00:54:37) – Recovery & satiety
(01:01:13) – Becoming adventurous
(01:08:09) – Trad moments
(01:15:43) – Trips with Yuji Hirayama
(01:20:38) – Discussing hard things with kids
(01:24:42) – Paradoxes & genetics
(01:30:25) – Yellow
(01:36:41) – Le Voyage & retraining fear
(01:44:24) – Naming emotions
(01:48:45) – Gentle feminism
(01:58:07) – Women’s cycles
(02:03:28) – Menopause & aging in climbing
(02:13:20) – The struggles of a pro athlete
(02:21:31) – House projects & side hustles
(02:26:22) – Wrap up
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Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget
👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne
Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavitt
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks
(00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing
(00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays
(00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love
(00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing
(00:26:03) – Book of Hate
(00:31:11) – Planet Earth
(00:33:39) – The first cell phones
(00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness
(00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing
(00:54:15) – The vision of new routing
(00:56:52) – A new area in Baja
(01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40
(01:13:44) – Almost drowning
(01:21:50) – Aging gracefully
(01:27:54) – Hallux limitus
(01:34:24) – Getting remodeled
(01:39:21) – Piloting
(01:49:55) – More route development
(01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon
(01:56:26) – Time
(02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days
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Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar’s study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.
Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/reviews
Or skip the discount and listen to the full episode here 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
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Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.
How You Can Help:
https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherd
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit
(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system
(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978
(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues
(00:18:36) – Formative experiences
(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan
(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style
(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles
(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught
(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles
(01:20:00) – How we can help
(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation
(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities
(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up
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Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol’s cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn’t climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey.
Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget
👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne
Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sol-wertkin
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:57) – How I met Sol
(00:03:56) – Depression & climbing roots
(00:09:02) – New routing in the PNW
(00:12:02) – The “Golden Era” in Leavenworth
(00:23:37) – Johnny Goicoechea
(00:28:37) – Training & sport climbing
(00:31:27) – Smith Rock & Spain
(00:35:40) – Getting diagnosed with cancer
(00:49:07) – Lifetimes, surgery 1, & do the things
(00:54:43) – Short of breath
(00:59:12) – Systematic diaphragm paralysis, & surgery 2
(01:03:33) – E-bikes
(01:10:20) – Diaphragm plication
(01:21:54) – Chylothorax
(01:25:15) – The early stages of dying
(01:28:39) – Surgery 3
(01:32:31) – Planning for the worst, & getting discharged
(01:36:40) – Bonus life
(01:41:55) – A final hurdle
(01:52:32) – Every day is a gift
(01:54:14) – Sailing
(02:01:06) – Replacing climbing
(02:08:48) – Goals
(02:13:59) – E-biking & ableism
(02:19:07) – Why Sol doesn’t climb anymore
(02:22:33) – A richer life after climbing
(02:29:58) – Trail clearing & volunteering
(02:34:38) – What’s next
(02:37:44) – Healthcare & nursing
(02:40:46) – Sol’s nuggets
(03:06:19) – Let’s go!
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Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.
Buy Stian's Book:
adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuries
Rúngne:
rungne.info/nugget
👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne
Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Tindeq:
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious
(00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing
(00:11:55) – Outline of topics
(00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries
(00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries
(00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable
(00:29:13) – Lifting weights
(00:31:04) – The Japanese approach
(00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries
(00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?
(00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries
(00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training
(01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity
(01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury
(01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery
(01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?
(01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries
(01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within
(01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries
(01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?
(01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury
(01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing
(01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds
(02:01:08) – Individual finger training
(02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves
(02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries
(02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain
(02:13:20) – Mindset tips
(02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent
(02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book
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Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
AG1:
drinkAG1.com/NUGGET
Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.
Arc’teryx:
Women’s climbing clothing
Men’s climbing clothing
Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Tindeq:
tindeq.com
Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast
(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’
(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency
(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle
(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety
(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume
(00:41:08) – Tree crimping
(00:43:50) – Almost daily training
(00:49:08) – The basics
(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions
(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches
(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game
(01:24:43) – Finger training
(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14)
(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs
(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s
(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks
(02:02:56) – Daydreaming
(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail
(02:13:27) – One thing at a time
(02:17:19) – Writing books
(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11
(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts
(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict
(02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet
(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood
(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health
(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto
(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto
(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management
(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol
(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors
(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol
(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research
(03:54:50) Where to buy Dave’s book
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This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/best-of-2024
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:05) – EP 200: Brook Rabouotou (Patreon EXTRA)
(00:14:29) – EP 201: James Pearson
(00:32:30) – EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns
(00:43:58) – EP 214: Neely Quinn Returns
(00:50:30) – EP 216: Maddy Cope
(00:54:30) – EP 221: Keenan Takahashi (Patreon EXTRA)
(01:02:20) – EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns
(01:19:24) – EP 229: Shauna Coxsey
(01:26:26) – EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest
(01:35:08) – EP 240: Alex Megos
(01:45:18) – EP 242: Molly Beard
(01:53:02) – EP 249: Chris Sharma (Patreon EXTRA)
(02:01:32) – EP 250: Beth Rodden
(02:12:12) – EP 252: Justin Salas
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April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/april-davidson
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:22) – Living with a blind man
(00:07:33) – Why they quit vanlife
(00:10:04) – Building out their van
(00:21:02) – Settling in Vegas
(00:23:44) – April’s relationship with climbing
(00:26:18) – Growing up & moving a lot
(00:31:44) – Moving to LA
(00:33:40) – 30s
(00:40:00) – Loss & addiction
(00:49:06) – An abusive relationship
(00:52:01) – Finding climbing
(00:54:34) – Breaking free
(00:58:56) – Dissociation & wasted time
(01:02:13) – Support & accountability
(01:05:21) – Her Instagram career
(01:12:57) – Photography & video
(01:16:15) – Going with the flow
(01:17:57) – Weddings & elopements
(01:21:10) – Health issues & adrenal fatigue
(01:28:56) – The carnivore diet
(01:35:25) – Getting strong
(01:40:00) – Gut health & her current diet
(01:43:52) – Vegan & vegetarian diets
(01:50:52) – Responsible meat eating
(01:55:08) – Quitting caffeine
(01:56:37) – Food tracking
(01:59:39) – Cake
(02:00:28) – Rapid fire questions
(02:04:18) – Narrating life to Justin
(02:07:30) – Ultimate trust
(02:08:34) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salas
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries
(00:05:26) – Vanlife
(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience
(00:15:35) – An invisible disability
(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”
(00:27:55) – Faces
(00:30:45) – Losing his vision
(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days
(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing
(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms
(00:48:36) – Assistive technology
(00:54:34) – How he climbs
(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing
(01:10:59) – Sight guides
(01:22:34) – Footholds
(01:25:29) – Stamina training
(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics
(01:33:14) – Getting inspired
(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em
(01:37:32) – Assessing landings
(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching
(01:45:04) – Toothpaste
(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes
(01:51:42) – Asking for help
(01:57:54) – April
(02:05:47) – Building out a van
(02:10:09) – Vegas
(02:12:56) – Nature is healing
(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear
(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk
(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing
(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions
(02:39:39) – Blind visualization
(02:46:48) – Building a mental map
(02:50:11) – Changemaker
(02:54:40) – Faith
(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning
(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy
(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”
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Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.
Holiday Gift Ideas:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift
Gift a Patreon subscription 👆
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
The NUG 👆
thenuggetclimbing.com/shop
Hello Friends merch 👆
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
greenchef.com/NUGGET50
Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jerome
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:12) – Hit & run
(00:04:42) – The recovery process
(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift
(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project
(00:13:23) – A really fun game
(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing
(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food
(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber
(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose
(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing
(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah
(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders
(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New
(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia
(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude
(01:37:45) – More about The New
(01:46:09) – Life going forward
(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New
(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK
(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA
(02:03:19) – Building a database
(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA
(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features
(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-rodden
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:54) – Injuries
(00:03:28) – Writing her book
(00:08:14) – Excavating memories
(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy
(00:13:59) – Living in fear
(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan
(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy
(00:27:06) – Putting the book together
(00:28:29) – A shared experience
(00:37:45) – Being honest
(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book
(00:47:39) – Facing backlash
(00:56:11) – Reductionism
(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells
(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career
(01:10:48) – Magic Line
(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change
(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game
(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories
(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs
(01:44:28) – The next level down
(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism
(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book
(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book
(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharma
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone
(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down
(00:10:32) – Knee injury
(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship
(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura
(00:20:07) – New challenges
(00:27:32) – Chapters
(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot
(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia
(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution
(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start
(00:52:32) – Should or should not
(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing
(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute
(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics
(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo
(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives
(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season
(01:27:21) – Santa Linya
(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again
(01:40:17) – Paris 2028
(01:46:32) – Embracing competition
(01:50:00) – The next generation
(01:54:12) – The media churn
(01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice
(02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ”
(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids
(02:12:32) – Ferrari
(02:16:16) – Magic
(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever
(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people
(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
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Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huber
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:25) – Many valleys
(00:04:53) – Hunting
(00:14:39) – Staying young
(00:16:29) – Thomas’ recent trip to Choktoi
(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions
(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp
(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis’ relationship with climbing
(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible
(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen
(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57
(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday
(01:01:17) – Beer break
(01:02:37) – Early training
(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution
(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux
(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup
(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s
(01:20:55) – 9a & beer
(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage
(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex
(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex
(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings
(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys
(01:54:00) – Patagonia
(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap
(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel
(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive
(02:06:24) – Freiheit
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Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!
Sign the Petition:
Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area
(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)
More Links:
stgeorgeclimberscoalition.org
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen
(00:02:16) – Intro
(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water
(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley
(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s
(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place
(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings
(00:17:46) – Fundraising
(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd
(00:27:56) – Striking a balance
(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing
(00:33:00) – Top secret information
(00:34:02) – Wrap up
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterBecome a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus
(00:03:50) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Think long-term
(00:08:10) – Steven’s Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it
(00:10:51) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades
(00:14:17) – Steven’s Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up
(00:17:29) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades
(00:28:34) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do more of what you haven’t been doing
(00:33:24) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)
(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up
(00:38:12) – Steven’s Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances
(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions
(00:44:12) – Creative home walls
(00:45:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you’ve been doing
(00:45:49) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overtraining
(00:50:32) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people’s agendas
(01:00:46) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking
(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through
(01:09:21) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often
(01:12:43) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: You’re not actually plateaued, you’ve just built a tower
(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids
(01:19:48) – That’s a wrap on season 2!
- Visa fler
