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Welcome back to the Cellar Door Podcast! 2025 is shaping up to be an extraordinary year with fresh guests, compelling topics, and plenty of excitement. As we kick off the 5th season of the CDP, we're starting by releasing the final conversations recorded in the U.S. during 2024.
I'm thrilled to begin with a truly inspiring discussion with Raj Parr. Born in Calcutta, Raj moved to the U.S. to attend the Culinary Institute of America in New York. His journey then took him to San Francisco, where he worked alongside the legendary Larry Stone. From there, Raj went on to become a trailblazing winemaker in California, renowned for his work with whole cluster fermentation.
In our conversation, Raj shares his rise through the restaurant world, the profound influence Larry Stone had on his career, and his candid thoughts on the changing landscape of the wine industry. A celebrated figure in his own right, Raj underscores the enduring importance of soul and passion in winemaking.
For anyone in the wine industry feeling disconnected from their spark, Raj’s insights are both grounding and inspiring. I can't recommend his words and perspective enough.
A heartfelt thank you to Raj Parr for joining me.
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This conversation will likely close out what has been a fascinating 2024. I’m still in Massachusetts immersing myself in the East Coast trade. The year is quickly coming to a close – it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas – and its bloody cold. In fact, I’ve come down with a cold and I’m struggling to fight it off. I honestly feel a bit mentally and physically challenged - No matter, there is one more important conversation to be had, with a distributor who has been championing Australian wine in the US for more than a decade. This conversation is with Gordon Little of Little Peacock Imports.
Gordon launched Little Peacock Imports in 2011 – the same year I graduated from high school! So, he’s had plenty of time to succumb to market forces, the drop of the Australian dollar, the industry trends that appear to have punched the Australian export wine trade in the mouth – yet Gordon is still there, Little Peacock is still operating – and Gordon says there is lots to do. This was a great opportunity to quiz Gordon on what he considers to be the talking points for Australian wine in the US – I ask some questions and he gives some suggestions. Gordon acknowledges that there is lots of work to be done, but the challenge is worth the effort.
The Australian industry needs to focus on depth, consistency, and reliability. It needs to focus on building, maintaining then strengthening relationships – matters challenged by the tyrant of distance but there is more than one way to skin a cat – sorry cats. Gordon very much considers all these things to be worth it, and it’s a cause the Melbourne born expat is very passionate about. Whether you are on the tractor, in the shop or doing anything else, I hope you find this chat insightful – and I hope I didn’t sniffle too much.
Also, given this is likely the last chat of the year, it’s been an incredible year for the CDP and I want to take this opportunity to thank everyone for supporting the show. Merry Christmas to all, and I wish you all the blessings of the season.
Now, let’s get on with the show. Ladies and gentlemen, I present Gordon Little of Little Peacock Imports.
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Aaron Ridgway serves as Head of Market for Wine Australia in the Americas, overseeing efforts across the U.S. and Canada. Leading a team of four, his work focuses on education, business development, and market entry for Australian wine in the North American market. Since transitioning from Negociants to Wine Australia in 2016, Aaron has been at the forefront of promoting Australian wine and navigating its performance in a highly competitive landscape.
In my time in the U.S., I’ve interviewed various wine professionals—sommeliers, distributors, and wine directors—about the state of Australian wine. A common theme has emerged: the challenges are many, but the opportunities are equally significant. To complement these private-sector perspectives, I turned to Aaron for his expert view, knowing his role gives him a unique vantage point on the successes and hurdles Australian wine faces.
Although our 50-minute conversation only scratched the surface, it was enough to reveal Aaron’s candid take on the current state of the market and the work needed to unlock its potential. Recent discussions with the Wine Australia team have also strengthened my belief in the opportunities ahead. Success in the U.S. fine wine market—a massive and influential $60 billion industry—will require a united push from all stakeholders. Consistent effort, collaboration, and sustained market engagement are key to building the traction Australian wine needs to thrive.
A big thanks to Aaron for sharing his invaluable insights.Support the show
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Kate Webber bends over backwards to give strong representation to Australian wine on her restaurant wine lists. She presents legacy brands, through to brands that represent the unknown middle ground of Australian wine, where the true excitement, innovation and value propositions are to be found. She extends herself and fights to get wines on her lists that ordinary would not be available given the unique three tier system. Kates love affair with Australian wine dates back decades. She was invited to Australia in 2013 as the recipient of a Yalumba Scholarship, a trip allowing her to take a deep dive into Australia’s wine landscape. Shock horror – the experience changed her life.
Kate laments the current state of Australian wine in the USA, while admitting the challenges are complicated. In this conversation we discuss what Kate considers to be the important backdrop to the problem, and the role for both Australian and US stakeholders in stepping up in fighting for Australia’s place in the USA. The USA remains the world’s largest fine wine market, valued at over $60 billion in 2023. For Kate, the time to tackle the market is now, when the times are tough, when the industry is struggling. The industry will bounce and it's important for Aus wine to be a pivotal player in that market when it does. There is so much food for thought in this conversation – what is really a call to action for those in the Australian wine market who want a piece of this very important pie.
At one point towards the start of the interview Kate and I had to manage two very loud patrons who decided to sit themselves right next to us in what was otherwise a very empty café. Kate and I soon relocated, so if you start to notice this, please stick with the interview as the listening gets much easier soon after.
A huge thanks to Kate for joining me.
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One of the most perplexing aspects of the American wine industry is its three-tier system. Introduced post-Prohibition in 1933, the system was designed to prevent monopolies and address tax irregularities—issues rooted in Mafia activity at the time—while also aiming to reduce the social harm associated with alcohol consumption. In essence, the system mandates that alcohol reach consumers through three distinct tiers: producers, distributors, and retailers. For imported wine, the process begins with a licensed importer, who then passes the product to a distributor before it reaches retailers and, ultimately, consumers.
Over the years, this system has faced criticism for being outdated and overly complex. However, it remains the law of the land, making it essential for anyone entering the U.S. wine market to understand and navigate its intricacies. Distributors play a crucial role within this framework, influencing both sales and consumer education. Partnering with a skilled distributor can significantly impact success in the market.
I had the pleasure of meeting Peter Tryba, Portfolio Manager of the Connoisseur Division at Martignetti, one of New England’s oldest and most respected distributors. Our introduction took place at a Chester Osborn tasting event in Boston, organized by Martignetti. After an engaging conversation during the event, I was eager to explore Peter’s insights further.
Peter is passionate about championing exceptional labels through Martignetti, ranging from legacy brands to innovative new producers. With his deep understanding of the distributor's role, Peter brings a unique perspective to the industry. I was thrilled when he agreed to share his thoughts on Martignetti’s history, his own journey, and his views on the evolving U.S. wine market and the influence distributors have in shaping trends.
A heartfelt thanks to Peter for joining me in this fascinating discussion.
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Jeronimo Ramales is the Wine Director at Prima, an acclaimed Italian restaurant nestled in Boston’s historic Charlestown district. Originally from Mexico, Jeronimo’s journey into hospitality began after he moved to New York, where he discovered a world far removed from his non-drinking background. His curiosity was piqued by the intricacies of restaurant wine lists, sparking a passion for wine that would soon become his calling.
Jeronimo quickly advanced in the industry, taking on senior wine management roles for restaurants in New York then Boston where he has been director for both Capo and Prima restraurants. Our paths crossed during a D’Arenberg tasting hosted by the vibrant Chester Osborn in Boston’s North End, where Jeronimo’s enthusiasm for Italian wines was immediately evident.
In this episode, we sit down in Charlestown to explore Jeronimo’s story, the landscape of Boston’s hospitality scene, and his approach to crafting the ideal wine list for Prima’s patrons. A heartfelt thank you to Jeronimo for sharing his journey and insights with us.
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In Season 3, Episode 9, I sat down with Doug Neal to cover the basics of oak in winemaking—a conversation that became a fan favorite. Doug's deep passion for oak is contagious; as a former history teacher turned wine maker and expert, he brings a wealth of knowledge and a unique perspective on the subject. So, naturally, I couldn’t resist inviting him back for a deeper dive.
In this episode, we get into the finer details: the specific forests oak comes from, how it’s prepared for barrel making, its nuanced impact on different wine styles, and even the current state of the oak market. Doug's insights and stories are pure gold for any wine enthusiast, and he didn’t hold back.
Grab your notepad, because you’ll want to jot down Doug’s tips and tidbits. I hope you enjoy this fascinating exploration of oak with the ever-knowledgeable "Dougmeister" himself!
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They don’t come much cooler than Chris Morisoli. He flies UH-60 Black Hawk helicopters, he’s completed deployments in Iraq and Afghanistan as a MEDEVAC polite rescuing wounded soldiers out of firefights and flying them to safety, he has served more or less his entire life as a volunteer fire fighter and – oh yes – he is the latest generation of the Morisoli family who are custodians of some of the most magical vineyards in the Rutherford Bench, and the entire Napa Valley for that matter. One might say the Morisoli story is the story of Rutherford. It spans the Italian migration to the United States, prohibition and the rise of the Napa Valley. Chris was born in 1984 and has Rutherford Dust in his veins. He grew up running in and out of the vines and you might be forgiven for seeing his return to the vines post deployment as inevitable.
Chris’s story and the Morisoli story is one of the most genuine and remarkable stories one will find. And yes – like most special things – you have to find it – tucked away in the shadows of the Mayacamas Mountain range, just off Highway 29, down Niebaum Lane, here lies a historic charming little house surrounded by historic vineyards that whisper memories and stories. This is Chris’s home and the home of the Morisoli legacy. Like most who are part of small family businesses, Chris spends most of his time on the tools, in the vineyard, in the winery or in the car, so cornering him for a chat is no small thing. Hence my elation when we finally settled on a time. This was a truly special conversation to have. My sincerest thanks to Chris for joining me.Support the show
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I’ve been living in the USA since April, with April through July immersed in the vibrant Santa Barbara Wine Country alongside Wes Hagen and his wife, Chanda. Longtime listeners will know Wes as a foundational figure in this region, notably for his work in establishing many of Santa Barbara’s AVAs. But next to Wes stands Chanda, his steadfast partner and inspiration, whom he met at a Grateful Dead cover band gig—how Californian! Together, they welcomed me into the heart of Santa Barbara, offering an insider’s view of its history, personality, and the essence of its young and dynamic wine industry. After my deep dive into Santa Barbara, Wes had a unique idea: flip the script and put me in the hot seat. Though it took some persuasion, I finally agreed to let Wes give me a taste of my own medicine. We share a passion for wine, history, and the bigger questions of meaning, which fueled hours of effortless conversation. In this episode, we focused on our shared love of wine and the color it channels. I owe a big thank you to Wes for hosting this lively conversation and to both Wes and Chanda for their generous hospitality. Enjoy this special episode!
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Fraser Mackenzie is the Group General Manager at Artisans of the Barossa, a collective of artisan producers dedicated to showcasing the unique diversity and heritage of Australia’s Barossa Valley. The Artisans’ mission is to dispel myths and redefine perceptions by highlighting the region's remarkable range—from ancient vines and rich soils to the innovative techniques of the families and winemakers who craft its wines.
Originally from Auckland, New Zealand, Fraser has a dynamic background in marketing and selling wine across the globe, from New Zealand to the USA and even the Middle East. His journey eventually led him to Australia, where he guided Montalto through the challenges of the COVID era. Joining Artisans of the Barossa in late 2022, Fraser has since been steering the group’s vision and message, with a focus on celebrating the exceptional character of the Barossa Valley.
In this episode, Fraser shares his insights on navigating market challenges, the nuances of wine marketing, and the deep joy he and his team derive from sharing the Barossa’s beauty with the world. A heartfelt thanks to Fraser for joining me for this conversation
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What is blind tasting? Why do it? Who benefits from it? To explore these questions, I sat down with two exceptional guests: industry veteran and Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey, and dynamic wine student Cokie Ponikvar. Bobby brings seasoned wisdom to the table, while Cokie offers her trademark passion and fresh insights that make her a standout voice in the industry.
In this episode, we dive into the world of blind tasting—demystifying a practice that some might see as needlessly complex, yet one that Bobby and Cokie champion as a powerful tool for honing wine knowledge, curating wine lists, and deepening one’s appreciation for wine. My heartfelt thanks to Bobby and Cokie for sharing their perspectives on this invaluable aspect of wine education
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Robert Joseph is a wine industry luminary. He’s been in the game for a long time and has observed and considered a great many things. He has launched wine labels, he’s had a decorated career as a wine journalist and along the way he found time to launch the international wine challenge considered by many to be the most rigorous, impartial and influential wine competition, yet interestingly Robert decided long ago to leave the world of wine criticism and pursue more innovative projects including launching French label Le Grand Noir, and his experimental Georgian label K'AVSHIRI. In today’s conversation, Robert shares his candid thoughts on the state of the wine industry. He firmly believes that we’ve forgotten that wine is part of the entertainment world—an industry meant to captivate and delight consumers. With too much noise and confusion, consumers are left bewildered, and this has had serious consequences. Robert challenges the industry to reexamine its purpose, starting with the fundamental question: Why? Every action, every label, every marketing decision must have a clear reason behind it which is communicateable and hence communicated to consumers. Robert’s passion for the industry shines through his sharp insights. I thoroughly enjoyed this conversation and I hope you do to. A huge thanks to Robert for joining me.
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Some time back a friend graciously gifted me a bottle of wine from a label I had only a distant familiarity with. A quick glance at the bottle set my mind racing. It was a Grenache crafted from Barossa vines over 150 years old—an 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache from Cirillo Wine Estate in the Barossa Valley’s Nuriootpa sub-region.
A brief dive into the history of Cirillo Estate revealed that the winery is the custodian of some of the oldest surviving vines in the Barossa. In the 1970s, the Cirillo family relocated to Light Pass in the Barossa Valley, where they inherited and began working with ancient vines—some as old as 170 years—that miraculously survived the Great Australian Vine Pull of the 1980s.
Naturally, I set out to track down the elusive Marco Cirillo, elusive because he is perpetually engrossed in the daily demands of the winery. Whether tending the vines, crafting wines, or driving sales, Marco is the force behind nearly every facet of Cirillo Estate. What I discovered was a family man of Calabrian descent, part of a lineage with over 400 years of winemaking tradition in Southern Italy. It’s no surprise that Marco was destined to become a winemaker. And if over 400 years of wine making pedigree were not enough, Marco is married to Annika Lehmann (the Lehmann name needing no introduction in Australian wine circles). She is Marco’s driving force, supporting him in every aspect of the business and doing what Marco describes as the “smart stuff” behind the scenes.
What strikes me most about Marco is how much he avoids the spotlight. It took quite some time to pin him down, but when you ask him a question, you get a straightforward answer—sometimes delivered with both barrels. Marco acknowledges that his directness can be mistaken for arrogance, but he views it as a reflection of his passion for wine and a deliberate effort to tune out the noise of wine politics and undue criticism.
The Cirillo brand has recently ignited global interest, especially following its success at the 2024 Vinous Icons event in New York City, where Marco’s Grenache became a talking point. Marco’s philosophy is to let his viticulture and winemaking speak for themselves, and it seems this approach is yielding significant rewards. I was fortunate to have Marco join me on the Cellar Door Podcast, where he shared his personal journey, insights on working with some of the world’s oldest Grenache and Semillon vines, the Barossa Old Vine Charter, and his overall winemaking philosophy. A heartfelt thank you to Marco for taking the time to join me.
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In or around 2013 three Aussie mates conspired to create the ultimate digital wine playground in a bid to make it easier for everyday Aussies to access great Australian wines. Today the DifferentDrop acts as one of the premier platforms for and supporters of domestic Australian wine. They keep an eye on the trends and form relationships with great Aussie producers to get access to the best wines. But that’s not all. They also want to share their experiences and what they learn along the way, and this has resulted in them creating one of the most engaging and educative online media presences in the Aussie landscape, particularly with their YouTube content. Co-founder Tom Hollings sat down with me to share the story of DifferentDrop and his perspectives on the wine game across Australia. A huge thanks to Tom for joining me.
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Get ready for an inspiring tale that’s guaranteed to warm your heart! It’s a story about passion, community, and a group of remarkable students at Upper Yarra Secondary College who are taking a bold step into the world of viticulture, winemaking and hospitality. Under the expert guidance of their dedicated teacher and mentor, Marcus Cook, these students have been hands-on in farming their very own school vineyard. The result? The inaugural 2023 Junction Road Pinot Noir, a wine crafted with hard work and determination, which went on to make waves at the prestigious Yarra Valley Wine Show.
Not only did this student-made wine score an impressive 95 points, but it also took home the award for Best Small Batch Wine – a massive achievement for a school project! Marcus Cook joins me on the Cellar Door Podcast to share the incredible journey of these young winemakers, as they forge a unique path through the world of viticulture, gaining invaluable skills and confidence along the way.
This is more than just a feel-good story – it’s a testament to what can happen when passion, education, and community come together. I can’t wait for you to hear all about it. A huge thanks to Marcus for joining me!
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According to the World Health Organization, “any level of alcohol consumption is associated with preventable net harms due to multiple health conditions such as injuries, alcohol use disorders (AUDs), liver diseases, cancers and cardiovascular diseases, as well as harms to persons other than drinkers.” According to Dave Parker of Benchmark Wine Group, that statement is demonstrably false. Dave Parker is the CEO and founder of Benchmark Wine Group, one of the worlds leading curators of rare and fine wine selections for retailers, restaurants and collectors. Dave also runs a data analysis company. It was Dave’s passion for wine and details that lead him into the conversation in defense of wine against the growing voice of those who Dave considers making the baseless claim that all alcohol is in any amount is bad for a persons health. According to Dave, its all about the J Curve, a data analysis, which plots that moderate consumption of alcohol is actually overall a health benefit for the average person – a J curve that recent critics claim to be outdated. I sat down with Dave Parker for close to an hour, during which he explained the basics of this topic and the importance of it to the wine industry at large. Given the complexity of this topic, Dave and my conversation is far from a complete analysis of the issue, so I have included links in the show notes to some of the resources Dave provided me. A huge thanks to Dave for joining me.
Article from Wine Business Monthly: www.winebusiness.com/wbm/article/284944
Article from Christopher Snowden: https://snowdon.substack.com/p/cherry-picking-the-evidence-on-alcohol
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This episode features none other than Joe Fattorini, a true force in the world of wine. Many of you know him as the co-presenter of The Wine Show, where he takes viewers on a journey through vineyards and wine cultures across the globe. But Joe’s influence reaches far beyond the screen. He’s a seasoned wine merchant, expert, educator, and marketer who has spent decades passionately sharing his love for wine, whether through writing, speaking, or consulting.
My introduction to Joe came through an article he penned on the anti-alcohol lobby and the complex challenges the wine industry faces in countering its relentless influence. His sharp insights and vibrant personality were evident, and I knew I had to get him on the show. While I wasn’t entirely sure where our conversation would lead, one thing was clear – with Joe, we could dive deep into just about anything.
In this episode, we talk about his fascinating journey in the wine industry, his thoughts on building consumer engagement, and the ongoing battle against the anti-alcohol lobby. A huge thank you to Joe for joining me.
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Tom Kline writes about wine. He has written for publications including Decanter Magazine, Wine Spectator, Halliday Magazine, Winepilot, and the much-loved Gourmet Traveler Wine of happy memory. Yet most recently Tom has embraced the challenge of writing as the Australian contributor to Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy, Jasper Morris MW’s online database dedicated to showcasing the very best of Burgundy to an audience of Burgundy tragics. According to Tom, Jasper senses the importance of identifying and presenting real alternatives to Burgundy given the practical realities that make Burgundy inaccessible to many. This is the perfect assignment for Tom. A clear brief to cover the very best of pinot noir and chardonnay across the Australian landscape, while affording Tom the scope and creativity to project his own voice and style through his work. You can clearly see this in Tom's recent reports on Mount Mary, Bannockburn and less recently on Giaconda.
Tom’s childhood was spent in North East Victoria’s pristine wine country, his father working for Brown Brother’s and Tom absorbing a love of wine by osmosis. Yet, Tom’s first passion was music. I have discovered a link between wine and creativity, particularly music. Tom Kline is no different. Tom eventually discovered that wine writing afforded him both increased stability and an avenue through which to channel his natural creativity.
In our conversation, Tom and I discussed his recent work and more generally the role that wine writers play in an industry in a state of flux while also touching on the responsibility that attaches to being part of the cohort of opinion leaders who influence consumer perceptions and decision making. Tom’s approach to this is simple, though no doubt difficult. Mold your own distinct and independent voice, then scrupulously work to maintain it. Tom shares a trove of insights in this conversation which was as fascinating as it was enjoyable to engage in. A huge thanks to Tom for joining me.
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I’ve been searching for the ideal introduction to the South African wine industry for the Cellar Door Podcast. When a friend recently on holiday in South Africa messaged me and asked me if I’d heard of Anthony Hamilton Russell, I knew that opportunity had arrived. For those unfamiliar, Anthony Hamilton Russell and his family’s Hamilton Russell Vineyards are among the most esteemed names in South African wine. The story began in 1975 when Tim Hamilton Russell acquired 170 hectares of untamed land, marking the start of his quest to craft cool climate wines. In 1991, Anthony Hamilton Russell took the reins, focusing the family’s efforts on producing just one Pinot Noir and one Chardonnay. This focus channeled through two wines has solidified Hamilton Russell Vineyards’ reputation for excellence in both domestic and international markets.
Anthony is not only a vanguard of his family’s legacy but also a passionate advocate for what he calls South Africa’s “Second Renaissance” in wine. Despite centuries of challenges, from industry oversupply to broader political turmoil, Anthony believes that the way forward is through relentless effort—more “airport and airplane” than “beach and board.” In other words, winemakers must hit the road and share the fruits of their labor, as there’s no substitute for hard work.
In our lively conversation, Anthony shared his insights on the Hemel-en-Aarde appellation, the history of Hamilton Russell Vineyards, and his thoughts on the current state of the wine industry. A heartfelt thanks to Anthony for taking the time to join me for this engaging discussion.
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In 1974 David Anderson embarked on a project in Victoria’s Heathcote region to plant vines and craft wine. His son Liam Anderson describes that David was more or less taking a shot in the dark, with no intention of founding what would become a label with a cult following across Australia and even certain locations across the globe. Liam describes customer relationships with Wild Duck Creek spanning over 30 years, the result of hours and hours of hard work, dedication and focus on delivering a premium wine experience to consumers.
Though Wild Duck Creek has in the past found favor with critics, not to mention being the first Victorian label to score 99+ points from Robert Parker Jnr at the Wine Advocate, Liam Anderson describes how over the years, and amid a change in fashion and trends, Wild Duck Creek has stayed true to its style of bigger, richer, wine’s of balance . They don’t try to please everyone. Rather they have a singular focus on enhancing the quality of what they have done since day dot - that is, crafting the highest quality wines given the unique terroir that Heathcote offers.Liam Anderson grew up watching his father’s ever expanding passion for Wild Duck Creek, a passion and focus that Liam says is fastidious . Liam has been managing the vineyards at Wild Duck Creek since he was 18 y/o. He’s been making the wines since he was 20. Liam has decades of Wild Duck Creek running through his veins. He has seen the evolution of Wild Duck Creek as a cult winery and is now largely responsible for its day to day management. He has inherited his father’s passion for Heathcote and dedication to the family brand. Liam joined me for an expansive conversation, on everything from Heathcote’s climate and geography, and what makes Heathcote - well - Heathcote, to the Wild Duck Creek’s story, the experience in the US market and Liam’s aspirations for the label’s future.
A huge thanks to Liam for joining me.
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- Visa fler
