Avsnitt
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This is the weekly column
Happy New Year. We survived another sun circumnavigation. Sunlight grows slowly longer. Spring rebirth looms over the sere, cold-swept horizon. Endure these last temperature-challenging months, and we emerge into warm, bright shining mornings. Two wine types provide solace during this frost-dusted interlude: Porto and sherry.
Porto and sherry are fortified wines produced on the Iberian peninsula. Porto in Portugal in the Douro Valley region and sherry in the Jerez region of Andalusia, Spain. Both are sweet wines with compensating acidity. Considered among the greatest fortified wines, both deliver succor when shivery winds swirl.
Porto typically has an ABV of 19-22%. Sherry is similar at 15-22%. Higher alcohol delivers comforting warming sensations. And, admit it, a pleasuring slight buzz.
Sherry pairs well with nuts, olives, cured meats—common winter appetizers. Porto pairs with chocolate desserts and blue cheese, notable conclusions to winter repasts. The two can bracket a memorable winter feast. And what better time to fatten up and escape than when frigid flurries fly?
Production of Porto wine dates to Roman times. The Porto we enjoy today developed in the 17th century when British merchants sought alternatives to French wine. Portugal’s fecund Douro Valley—a UNESCO World Heritage Site today—beckoned. Grapes grew from headwaters in Spain to the port city of Porto—thus the name. Most of the wine is made in Vila Nova de Gaia directly across the Douro. You can walk across a bridge to get there. Wine ships from the port of Porto.
Sherry has similar back story. Viticulture dates to BC Roman times. Even under Moorish conquest (711-1264 AD), sherry production continued in spite of Islamic alcohol prohibitions. In the Spanish age of exploration (think Columbus and conquistadores), ships sailed around the world with sherry in their holds. Sherry production involves a “solera system” where wines from succeeding vintages are blended and exposed to air. This oxidation is the reason the wine became better, not worse, on long sea voyages.
Both Porto and sherry are delicious with unique flavors. Certainly they are comforting in the depth of winter. They also can be enjoyed any time of the year.
Tasting notes
• Warre’s Vintage Porto 2016: Plush dessert in a glass with alcohol oomph (20%). Wonderfully expressive dark fruits. Elegant, balanced, charming. Sweetness deftly paired with excellent acidity. $100 Link to my review
• Lustau East India Solera Sherry: Sweet, smooth, velvety. Excellent balance of sweetness and acidity. Fascinating interplay of tangy, salty notes of oloroso (80% of blend) and the sweetness of pedro ximénez. $28 Link to my review
Last round
What do you call someone who drinks fortified Spanish wine? A person who sherry-picks their alcohol.
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Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
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This is the weekly colum
This column runs on Wednesdays in most markets—Christmas Day in 2024. If you have not secured your wine before now, no chance today. We can, however, look forward to New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.
Sparkling wines are stars of New Year celebrations. Statistics indicate roughly 25 percent of all Champagne is sold between Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Something like 360 million glasses of sparkling wine are consumed on New Year’s Eve.
People who don’t usually drink sparkling, drink sparkling around the New Year celebrations. On a more sobering and serious note, New Year’s Eve statistically is the most drunken night of the year, with sparkling wine playing a major role. The unfortunate quip is “New Year’s Eve is amateur drunk night.”
Enjoy wine in moderation so you can be around for the next annual celebration. With that in mind, a primer on the types of sparkling wine:
• Champagne. Produced exclusively in the Champagne region of northeastern France (no matter what some rogue labels claim) using the traditional method (méthode champenoise) with secondary fermentation in the bottle. Three primary grapes—pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier.
• Crémant. French sparkling made outside the Champagne region, using grape varieties typical to their regions using traditional method.
• Cava. Spanish sparkling, primarily produced in Catalonia. Made using traditional method using Spanish grapes xarel·lo, macabeo, and parellada; also chardonnay and pinot noir.
• Prosecco. Italian sparkling from the Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions using the Charmat method where secondary fermentation occurs in large tanks. Glera is the prime grape.
• Franciacorta. High-quality Italian sparkling from Lombardy primarily made with chardonnay and pinot noir using traditional method.
• Asti and Moscato d’Asti. Sweet sparklings made in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy using the moscato bianco grape. Asti is fully sparkling (spumante). Moscato d’Asti is semi-sparkling (frizzante).
• Sekt. German sparkling made with various grapes, some using traditional method, others Charmat.
• New World Sparklings. Made in U.S., Australia, New Zealand and some other countries using traditional grapes and traditional method.
• Cap Classique. Sparkling in South Africa using various grapes, primarily chardonnay and pinot noir, using traditional method.
• Junk Sparkling. My term for very cheap wine infused with CO2 in the same way as soda pop. Guzzle this dreck at the close of 2024 and it is unlikely you will enjoy the dawn of 2025.
Last round
Man walking home after too much sparkling at a New Year’s party. Policeman sees him weaving and asks where he is going. Man: “To a lecture.” Policeman: “Who gives lectures this late on New Year’s Eve?” Man: “My wife.”
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Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
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Saknas det avsnitt?
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This is the weekly colum
With Christmas/holiday feasts coming soon, what is the ideal alcohol percentage for wine paired with food? The answer is 10-14%. Why?
U.S. labeling laws are loony, so the ABV amount on the label can be inaccurate, but this is a discussion of wine-food pairing quality not bureaucratic gobbledygook. Lower alcohol wines allow the grapes to show off and complement food rather than flaunt over-ripe fruit and alcohol.
We got to high alcohol wines several decades ago when American wine drinkers were neophytes. Big, blowsy, high alcohol red wines tended to get higher scores, and high scores moved bottles off shelves.
My theory on how this came to be: wine tasting can be intense. Professional tasting protocols—small pour, see, swirl, smell, sip, spit, write evaluation—usually involve multiple wines. For some reviewers that could be 30 or more wines at a time. When tasting that many, nuances vanish. Yes, you spit the wine, but the alcohol and flavors still dull your senses. Wines with the most impact on dulled senses—over-ripe, high alcohol wines. Most people do not taste and spit 30 wines at a sitting, so “professionals” evaluate in a different world than average drinkers.
For a grape variety to best show its stuff, it is harvested a skosh earlier than when higher-scoring, higher alcohol wines are harvested. For higher alcohol, grapes must hang longer to get riper to boost sugar that will be converted into alcohol. That creates wines that are more fruit-forward and concentrated and alcoholic. It creates wine that appears to be slightly sweet—from ripe grapes, not residual sugar—and sweeter because alcohol fools our palate’s sweetness evaluator. Sweeter wine sells, especially to occasional wine drinkers.
The process creates wines with less acidity that are less authentic to the variety of the grape. It also creates wines that pair less well with food. Big alcohol wines often are not even intended to be food wines. They are more “cocktail” wines, an alternative to people who aren’t into tequila shots. They are wines to be sipped milling about at an event or sitting at a bar ogling tonight’s prospects.
OK, it is your life, live it as you wish. For me, wine’s best place is as part of a meal, to be savored over time and food and convivial conversation. Wines with less alcohol that more accurately reflect the grape, terroir, and skill of the winemakers are a better fit for that paradigm. Something to consider for the holidays.
Last round
Why do Christmas trees hate knitting? They keep dropping their needles. Wine time, and Merry Christmas.
Email: [email protected]
Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
Website: Gus Clemens on Wine website
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Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal
Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
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This is the weekly column
If you have a wine lover on your Christmas/holiday gift list, some recommendations.
Wine always is appreciated. Gift wine they enjoy, a proclivity you likely know, but if you do not, ask. If you are trying to disguise your gifting intentions, there are many clever ways to inquire. Wine lovers are never hesitant to discuss wine.
There are almost infinite options depending on the depth of your friendship and your pocketbook. For casual friends, a single bottle festively wrapped works. For deeper friendships, several bottles or large format bottles play well. You also can go with one or more bottles of high end wines costing three figures. Just do not give with the expectation they will share it with you, although that certainly can happen. Win-win.
For very close friends or family, consider a gift membership in a winery’s wine club or a non-winery subscription service. That becomes a gift appreciated all year.
Practical non-wine gifts:
• Waiter’s friend hinged corkscrew. Has everything you need to open a bottle of wine, cheap enough to be a stocking stuffer. Worst choice—winged corkscrew. Everything about a winged corkscrew is wrong.
• Simple wine decanter. Avoid fancy, showy ones that are easy to break and impossible to clean.
• Wine chiller. Essentially an insulating shield to keep wine at the proper temperature. The most popular are made of stainless steel or marble.
Wine reading/research material:
• Magazine subscriptions. Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast are the leading monthly magazines.
• Website subscriptions. Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast are excellent online; unfortunately, they are not bundled with the printed magazine. Wine Folly offers on-line classes, informing videos, and Wine Folly—The Master Guide ($21) is an excellent, easy reference book. RobertParker.com and JamesSuckling.com are filled with searchable wine evaluations and features. wine-searcher.com and vivino.com are search engines for almost every wine made. And there is my Substack blog: gusclemens.substack.com .
Books:
• Rosé Revolution by Rasmus Emborg and Jens Honoré—massive, beautiful coffee-table tome. $45
• Wine and the White House: A History by Frederick J. Ryan, Jr.—massive, beautiful coffee-table tome. $65
• Malbec mon amour by Laura Catena and Alejandro Vigil—definitive work; Catena is Argentina’s leading spokesperson for (and maker of) malbec. $20
• The Mad Crush: An Obscure California Vineyard and the Quest to Make One Great Wine by Sean C. Weir—engaging, expanded version of cult winemaking memoir (paperback). $15
Last round
Q: Why is Christmas just like your job?
A: You do all the work and the fat guy with the suit who only works one night a year gets all the credit. Wine time.
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This is the weekly colum
Nebbiolo is the extraordinary grape closely identified with the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy and particularly with the region’s great wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. Let’s explore.
The origins of the nebbiolo name is a bit foggy. It likely derives from the Italian word “nebbia” or the Piedmontese word “nebia.” Both mean “fog”—a reference to fogs that come to the Langhe region, where the grapes are grown, during the October harvest.
Italian Piedmont region vineyard
Nebbiolo grapes make wines with bold flavors and very high levels of tannins and acidity, which is why they require several years of aging to become drinkable, and can age for decades. While the wines are bold, the color is not—more the pale ruby also associated with pinot noir.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so vineyard site selection is important. Vines are vigorous, requiring significant management to ensure quality grapes. This finicky nature challenges grape growers and increases the price, but the reward is some of the world’s most prestigious wines.
Barolo and Barbaresco—named for the small villages in the center of their production areas—are the iconic nebbiolo wines. They are produced in adjacent areas in the Langhe hills of Piedmont. Barolo is southwest of the city of Alba. Barbaresco is northeast of Alba, 14 miles away from Barolo.
Although geographically close, the wines have somewhat different characteristics. Barolo—called “the wine of kings and the king of wines”—is more robust and full-bodied with higher tannins and acidity. And the “kings” quote is not just a clever 18th century tagline. The Savoys, Italy’s first (and last) kings really did love Barolo.
Barbaresco is more approachable and elegant with softer tannins and lighter body. There is a royalty quote about Barbaresco, too: “We call Barolo the king, and Barbaresco the queen.”
Italian DOCG regulations are strict for both. Barolo must have a minimum of 38 months total aging, with a minimum of 18 months in wood. Barbaresco must have a minimum of 26 months total aging, with a minimum of nine months in wood. In both cases, winemakers routinely exceed the minimum requirements.
Tasting notes
• Riva Leone Barbaresco DOCG 2017: Prominent tannins, as expected in Barbaresco, well-balanced by acidity. Recommend decanting, pretty much standard on a young Barbaresco. $35 Link to my review
• Pio Cesare Barolo Pio DOCG 2018: Polished, approachable, delicious from signature maker. Rich dark fruits framed by approachable tannins and oak. You can let this age gracefully, but when decanted it is wonderful now. $75-85 Link to my review
Last round
Why did the math student do multiplication problems on the floor? Because the teacher insisted students could not use tables. Wine time.
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Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
Website: Gus Clemens on Wine website
Facebook: facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/
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Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal
Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
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This is the weekly column
Wine is in turmoil. People are turning to alcohol alternatives. Red wine sales are down, white and rosé are up. French and Italians and Spanish are drinking less wine. There is a glut of wine. What?!
This scenario was improbable just a few years ago when wine world was surfing on the wave of the global wine boom. Old world drank almost all they produced, China guzzled, U.S. boomers joyously enjoyed. Then COVID and anti-alcohol reports—all alcohol is bad for you—and alcohol alternatives. Semi-full stop. Too much wine, too few drinkers. Industry semi-panic.
Well, take a deep breath. The wine industry is not in the ditch with donkey’s feet pointing toward the sky. Yes, there is retrenchment, which every industry experiences. Welcome to the real world dot-com millionaires who overpaid for Napa acres so you could experience your Falcon Crest fantasy. You likely will lose money. You got into this because you had money to lose.
White wine’s ascendancy is the interesting part of this evolution. Red wine has long been king. Not now. White wine’s typically lower alcohol content, compatibility with heathy foods like salads and lighter meats and fish, and fruity deliciousness is celebrated while massive oak and malolactic fermentation/conversion are in the rearview mirror of commodity wine makers. Less flamboyant efforts have pushed whites—and rosé—to the front of wine buying queue.
Which should be ecstatic joy for wine makers. Red wines take time. Usually at least three or more years from vintage to store shelf. White and rosé can easily get there in one or two. If you are a business person, consider a situation where you produce or buy a product and know you will not be able to sell for two, or five, or ten years, how much intestinal pucker are your prepared to endure? Such is the world of wine.
Wine drinkers should not despair. White and rosé wines are wonderful. They especially go well with heart-healthy foods. Rosé wines in particular straddle the divide between fish and lighter meats, not to mention vegetarian fare.
Look, I get it. A rich red wine with assertive tannins and high alcohol remains on my list, especially when munching on fatty cow flesh. But that is only one box on my dietary check list. White and rosé certainly are OK.
Last round
Little girl in a drawing lesson. Teacher went over to her and she said, “What are you drawing?”
Girl: “I’m drawing a picture of God.”
Teacher: “Nobody knows what God looks like.”
Girl: “They will in a minute.”
Wine time.
Email: [email protected]
Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
Website: Gus Clemens on Wine website
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Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal
Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
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This is the weekly column
Thanksgiving is the great American gastronomic holiday. Halloween is for foolishness, costumes, and candy. Christmas is for worship, family, and unseemly lust for gaudily wrapped material goods (somewhat antithetical to the Christian origin of the holiday).
Thanksgiving is the quintessential harvest feast. Turkey and ham and cranberry sauce and corn on the cob and cornbread and pumpkin pie and whatever else you can conjure up from the cornucopia of agricultural abundance the good Lord bestows on American tables.
The wine: pinot noir. I know arguments can be made for zinfandel and Bordeaux blends (American Bordeaux blends), even some whites and rosés. All well and good and maybe part of the groaning Thanksgiving sideboard of excess of everything. But if you want one wine for this bacchanalian extravaganza, it is pinot noir.
Pinot is among the lightest of the red wines. It thus works well with a wide array of foods you conjure up for your Thanksgiving feast. It is especially suited for turkey, goes very well with ham. The stronger California versions of pinot can hang with slow-cooked brisket. It especially is nice for family members put off by tannic, assertive red wines. Thanksgiving is a meal of comity and convaiviality. Pinot noir encourages that.
Pinot noir is a famously fickle grape, also one of the oldest varieties used for winemaking. The Catholic church was critical to its development beginning in monastery vineyards in the 6th century, then specifically named in the early 1300s. It spread to Germany as spätburgunder and in Italy as pinot nero. France’s Burgundy region is the cathedral of pinot noir, but California’s Russian River Valley and Oregon’s Willamette Valley now produce some of the world’s best pinots.
Pinot noir is a challenging grape due to its thin skin—thus its reserved tannins—and susceptibility to various viticulture challenges. It is called the “heartbreak grape” for a reason, which means pinot noir can be expensive. It also is worth it for your biggest gastronomic celebration of the year.
Tasting notes
• Project M Wines Personify Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley AVA 2022: Delicate, silky on initial attack, rising to power, complexity later in the palate. $40 Link to my review
• Dobbes Family Estate Eola-Amity Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2021: Excellent fruit effort. Nice tang, clean, precise, complexity, length. $45 Link to my review
• Soter Vineyards Estates Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2021: Juicy, concentrated flavors. Plush, complex, elegant, impressive structure, length. Warm vintage well played by Soter, producing a more assertive pinot noir that you anticipate from Willamette. $55-63 Link to my review
Last round
What did the farmer say when he accidentally squashed his pumpkin? Oh my gord! Wine time.
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This is the weekly colum
It takes two to four centuries to grow the oak tree for a wine barrel. Then, after tree harvest, four, usually more, years to season the wood and the staves. Finally, it is time to turn the staves into a wine barrel.
Staves are planed into the correct shape, tapered and beveled to fit exactly together. A master cooper—the barrel maker—arranges 30-32 staves in a circle held together by temporary hoops. At this point, the future barrel resembles a flower with the bottom of the staves together and the tops splayed out.
The “flower” then is toasted over an open oak fire and sprayed with water to soften the wood and make it pliable. A cable system draws the splayed ends together to create the iconic barrel shape, with very careful attention to the grain of the wood.
The basic barrel shape then is “toasted” over an oak fire to develop flavors and aromas. This is a key part of the operation. The amount of the flame—light, medium, or strong—determines the character of the barrel. Low toasting emphasizes fresh fruit and elegance, while strong toasting delivers smoke, coffee, vanilla, crème brûlée, butterscotch, meats, and other flavors.
At the same time, heavy toast makes for silkier, softer tannins because heavy toast breaks down the oak tannins. Smoke is another characteristic of heavy toasting. Heavy toast is often used for big, bold red wines that can stand up to the oak influence. Heavy toast also can require longer aging for the flavors to integrate and add complexity to the wine.
In addition to how the barrels are treated, the type of oak also influences the wine. French oak produces a more subtle and delicate influence, but more tannin structure and mouthfeel. American oak imparts flavors more quickly and adds roasted coffee, coconut, sweet spice and more robust oak.
Cooper making wine barrel—Creative Commons
French, American, and eastern European oak all contribute oak nuances. The different origins of the oak deliver various levels of the oak influence.
The bottom line is wine is an agricultural product—grapes and wood. It also is the work of human hands and experienced minds.
Tasting notes
• Funckenhausen Malbec Blend, Mendoza, Argentina 2022: Vibrant, juicy full-bodied malbec-led blend. Argentine wine with hint of German heritage. $12-16 (1-liter bottle) Link to my review
• The Prisoner Wine Company Saldo Red Blend 2019: Dependable celebration of ripe zin with supporting cast. Big, powerful, not quite as high alcohol as previous vintages, but still up there are 15% ABV. $32 Link to my review
Last round
A pregnant woman began shouting: “Couldn’t, wouldn’t, shouldn’t, didn’t, can’t, don’t!” She obviously was having contractions. Wine time.
Email: [email protected]
Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
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Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal
Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
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This is the weekly column
Wine is an agricultural product. Hardly an earth-shattering revelation. But consider its scope. Not just wine vines, as essential as they may be, but in many cases—trees.
Wine and wood have a marriage dating back millions of years. Wine vines are tree climbers, a relationship accelerated after the astroid-Armageddon when 75% of all plant and animals species became extinct. Trees and grapevines survived and flourished in the aftermath.
Fast forward to recent times and the intimate nexus of wood and grape juice becomes more significant. Not only do/did trees provide grape vines a trellis upon which to climb to sunlight, they provide flavors and nuances for finishing wine.
Time scales underscore the magnificence of wine creation. Vines must grow for three years before they deliver anything useable as wine fruit, and 20 or 30 or 100 years for the best. Forests are even more long term. Better quality oak in France and America are at least 200 years old, best longer than that—top French oak comes from 400-year-old trees. Think of that. Wood that enhances and finishes the quality wine you drink today began when the American Revolution began. George Washington could have seen the sapling that grew to make the barrel used in making the red wine in your glass tonight.
Just as there are grapes of varying quality and characteristics, so with oak trees. Wood factories divide raw product according to quality. Oak designated for wine barrels cannot have flaws, so only around 20% is used for wine barrels. The remaining wood goes for furniture, home construction, and other products.
After seasoning for several years, wood destined for wine barrels is sawed into staves. Staves are evaluated for grain and flavor. Smell is important here as staves of different flavors and smell are used depending on what characteristics the winemaker intends. Then staves age two or more years before they go into the cooperage to be fashioned into barrels.
Just as winemakers blend grapes from different plots and different grape varieties, so do barrel makers blend different types of oak, different types of wood grains, and other variables. The variable of grain ranges from extra fine grain to big grain. The tighter the grain, the lesser the micro-oxygenation, which is the interaction between the juice inside the barrel and the atmosphere outside the barrel. There is no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on what sort of wine the maker wishes to make.
Once staves are cut, they go to the cooperage. Another complex story.
Last round
A fool and his money are soon parted, especially in a wine bar.
Email: [email protected]
Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
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Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal
Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
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This is the weekly column
Some facts and trivia to lighten your mood as we prepare for the horrors of “fall back” when the government gives back the imaginary hour it stole from us on the second Sunday in March.
• Do heavier glass bottles indicate higher quality wine?
Glass weight does not affect wine quality. But there has long been a marketing illusion that better wines come in heavier bottles, and winemakers have tended to put their premier efforts in heavier bottles. But so have lesser wines been put into heavy bottles so sellers can charge more. Happily, there is a mounting movement to reduce bottle weight, which cuts down on CO2 emissions and shipping and other costs.
Symington Family Estates recently switched to lighter bottles for its Cockburn’s Port line. Their new 750 ml bottle weighs 450g down from 585g. Other wineries, especially for wines not made for aging, have shifted to cans and “juice boxes” for even greater savings.
• Will the LED lights in my wine cellar cause light strike in my wine?
UV light and heat are enemies of wine, especially in long-term storage. Traditional lights give off UV and heat. Good news is LED lights give off minimal heat and almost no UV radiation.
• What do the fancy names for bubbles in Champagne mean?
“Mousse” generally refers to the overall fizziness, also the frothy head at the top of the glass. “Perlage” is French for a string of pearls and refers to the column of bubbles rising in the glass. “Bead” basically means the same as perlage.
• What are the most planted wine grapes in the world?
This answer changes and reporting is not uniform, but best answer in 2024 is cabernet sauvignon is the most planted red and chardonnay is the most planted white.
• How do you open a bottle with a wax seal?
Ignore the wax seal. Plunge the corkscrew through the wax and pull. When the cork is pulled, the wax will fall away. Just before you fully remove the cork, you can clean up any wax debris if needed.
• What does the wine descriptor “racy” mean?
Racy is more a style, not a descriptor of quality, smell, or taste. It basically means a wine with vibrant, fresh acidity. While it most often is associated with white wine, red wines can be racy, too. Racy is a positive comment and indicates the wine will “cleanse the palate” and work well with food.
Last round
A friend asked me how much I spend on a bottle of wine?
I said: “About 45 minutes, longer with a meal.” Wine time.
Email: [email protected]
Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com
Website: Gus Clemens on Wine website
Facebook: facebook.com/GusClemensOnWine/posts/
Twitter (X): @gusclemens
Long form wine stories on Vocal: Gus Clemens on Vocal
Links worth exploring
Diary of a Serial Hostess Ins and outs of entertaining; witty anecdotes of life in the stylish lane.
As We Eat Multi-platform storytelling explores how food connects, defines, inspires.
This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe -
This is the weekly column
Halloween is next week, but if you are giving wine advice it’s best to give your audience some time to act on it.
First, I know of no decent pairing of wine with treacly sweet trick-or-treat candy. With somewhat less sugary candy, you can go with light, sweet wines. Wine must be at least as sweet as the candy.
If the treat is dark chocolate, you have real options. Dark chocolate typically contains 50-90% cocoa solids. The higher the percentage of cocoa, the better to pair with wine. Vintage or ruby port, sherry, and marsala are classic fortified wine pairings. Non-fortified pairing wines include zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and New World pinot noir.
If you are not part of the child extortionists plot, you can always enjoy the frivolity of an adult costume party and real wine pairings. Charcuterie boards work well with almost the entire panoply of wine. If you are enjoying a full regular meal, the usual food-wine pairings apply.
When you get to dessert, dark chocolate is in play. With pumpkin pie there are several choices:
• Mascatel sherry. Its honey, caramel, and raisin notes nicely pair with the pie.
• California chardonnay. A full-bodied chard with plenty of oak, butter, and vanilla flavors will work especially nicely with pie crust.
• Tawny port. Nutty and dried fruit flavors complement the pie.
• Oloroso sherry. Sweet, nutty flavors match with autumnal flavors of the pie.
• Late harvest gewürztraminer. Nutmeg, vanilla, and cinnamon flavors in this sweet wine complement spices in pumpkin pie.
• Riesling ice wine. Sweetness and acidity work with the pie’s rich, creamy textures.
As with candy, the key is the wine must be at least as sweet as the pie. In fact, that is a good rule of thumb for all wine and food pairings.
Now you are set for the last day of October ordeal or fun fest, however you roll. Answer the doorbell, pay off the kiddos demanding tribute, practice moderation, wake up the next morning to prepare for the next holiday.
Tasting notes
• Cockburn’s No. 1 Special Reserve Porto NV: Delicious, approachable. The world’s most popular special reserve premium port. $18-20 Link to my review
• Lustau East India Solera Sherry: Fascinating interplay of tangy, salty notes of oloroso grapes (80% of blend), sweetness of pedro ximénez grapes. $22-28 Link to my review
Last round
This Halloween I decided to go as a harp. At the party, a gentleman asked, “what are you supposed to be?”
“A harp,” I replied.
“No, no,” he protested. “You’re too small to be a harp.”
“So,” I asked, “are you calling me a lyre?”
Wine time.
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October begins the 17th year of this wine column. Reflections.
• Quality wine is made by grape farmers in a vineyard, not by lab coats in a winery. When this column started, I could enjoy mass production wines manipulated by oak and tartaric acid and Mega Red. As years and tasting passed, my palate grew to more appreciate wines truer to place and variety. Supermarket mass production wines have their place, but as your wine odyssey unfolds their role diminishes.
• Wine is more complex and interesting than you can grasp in a lifetime. Anyone who claims to know everything—or almost everything—about wine just proved they do not. Wine is an infinite Fabergé egg. Opening each shell presents you with a more beautiful and fascinating layer.
• Texas wines would get there. My first publisher—of a Texas newspaper—specifically told me to avoid writing about Texas wines. They were hard for readers to buy. Winemakers struggled to find grapes and cellar practices that worked in Texas. No more. Texas wines have made enormous strides. They compete on quality and are beginning to compete on distribution. They tend to be somewhat overpriced, but sell out because of the proud loyalty of Texans. If Texans will buy $18 wine for $25 dollars, Texans will sell it to them. Then use profits to elevate their wine to be worth $25.
• If you enjoy a wine, it is good wine for you. Ignore my and others opinion of it. I stated that in the first column. I believe it more today.
• You never run out of things to write about. Early on, people worried I would exhaust my subject. Not close to the truth. I have written more than 800 columns, all posted on my website. Not a single repeat. No expectation whatsoever I will run out of material.
• Supercilious tasting notes and wine scores are ridiculous. Sixteen years ago, I bet people wanted to know about wine. How it is made. The people who make it. The places it is made. What the jargon meant. With tens of thousands of readers around the world, I remain all-in on that bet. If you come to me for a pithy sentence and some score on a 100-point scale, you came to the wrong place.
My writing career has taken me many places. Sports editor of a major newspaper. Author or participant in some 20 books. A successful advertising agency owner. This column remains a beloved highlight in that career, and I deeply appreciate your being part the journey.
Last round
What washes up on tiny beaches? Microwaves. Wine time.
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Scare headlines: “Drinking any alcohol is a cancer risk.” Well, okay, the question is how much of a risk?
In this discussion, remember the adage popularized by Mark Twain: “Three types of lies. Lies. Damn lies. And statistics.” Stories about cancer risk with alcohol often can be taken with a grain of salt.
No question alcohol can put you at a greater risk of cancer. But how much greater risk? That is where the statistical hanky-panky emerges. A popular reference comes from the Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction’s 2023 Guidance on Alcohol and Health: Final Report. A bottom line: limit consumption to no more than two alcoholic drinks a week.
The devilish detail is the comparison of no-alcohol risk and the risk of some alcohol—usually two glasses of wine a day. Here are the findings:
• The breast cancer risk for no-alcohol females is 17.3 of 100,000 deaths (1.73%). Two-a-day drinkers increase their risk to 22 of 100,000 deaths (2.2%).
• The colorectal cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 9.2 of 100,000 deaths (.92%). Two-a-day drinkers is 11.1 of 100,000 (1.1%).
• The liver cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 3.2 of 100,000 deaths (.32%). Two-a-day drinkers is 3.6 of 100,000 deaths (.36%).
• The oesophagus cancer risk for no-alcohol people is 1.5 of 100,000 deaths (.15%). Two-a-day drinkers is 2.1 of 100,000 deaths (.21%).
The statistical trick is to state increased risk in relative terms, not absolute terms. Breast cancer risk is 17.3 of 100,000 among non-drinkers and 22 of 100,000 for drinkers. The increase in drinkers is 27% measured in relative terms—22 is 27% more than 17.3. In absolute terms, the increase is .47% (17.3 plus .47 equals 22). If a woman drinks two glasses of wine a day, she increases breast cancer risk by less than one-half a percent.
That is the reason the anti-alcohol zealots harp on relative and not absolute numbers. One is alarming but misleading. Two-a-day female wine drinkers do not increase their death rate by 27%. They increase their cancer chances from 17.3 per 100,000 to 22 per 100,000.
No one argues that excessive alcohol does not pose significant health risks. But misleading the public about the risks of moderate consumption is not the way to affect this issue. Go ahead and have that glass of wine with your meal tonight. It is very unlikely to kill you. And the bonhomie you enjoy with that meal has its own benefit of increasing joy and enriching your life, which studies show helps prolong life.
Last round
What do elves use to make sandwiches? Shortbread. Wine time.
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If you go into almost any wine shop, liquor store, or supermarket wine section in the United States—and now in most places in the world—you will find wine bottles arranged and named by the variety of grape used to make the wine.
When the bottle contains a predominant percentage of a single grape variety (generally 75% in the U.S., 85% in Europe) it can be labeled as a varietal wine. It has not always been that way, and you have an iconic American wine family to thank for the change.
The classic naming convention came from Old World wine countries—France, Spain, Italy, Germany, and other European countries. The name came from the appellation—Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja, Priorat, Chianti, Barolo.
Sophisticated wine drinkers understood designations. Bordeaux—blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and a few other grapes. Burgundy—pinot noir. Rioja—tempranillo. Priorat—garnacha and carignan. Chianti—sangiovese. Barolo—nebbiolo.
When California wines stunned the world at the Judgment of Paris in 1976 the contestant wines were identified as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but that was not the norm. Back then, many American wines were labeled with names like “Claret”—cabernet sauvignon, maybe. “Burgundy”—pinot noir, maybe. “Hearty Burgundy”—not pinot noir, but a blend of zinfandel, petite sirah, and carignan. “Champagne”—any sparkling wine made any way, to the fury of winemakers in the Champagne region of France. The Mondavi family, led by Robert, realized most Americans were just getting into wine and needed something simpler. When Robert left the family’s Charles Krug operation to found his own winery in 1966, he began labeling his wine by the variety used. For the most part. When it came to sauvignon blanc, then considered déclassé, not the hot white it is today, Mondavi blinked and appropriated its French name “Pouilly-Fumé” to create “Fumé Blanc,” a blend of mostly sauv blanc with a splash of sémillon—but with enough sauv blanc to be labeled as a varietal. Today, it is among the winery’s best sellers.
The American naming revolution largely won the day. Old World wineries still use their historical names, but likely you can read the varietal or variety-blend somewhere on the label. Almost every New World wine will carry the varietal or variety-blend information.
The revolution made figuring out wine easier for people to figure out. And is an important reason for wine’s unprecedented increase in popularity the past half century. Thanks, Bob.
Last round
My English teacher looked at me and said: “Name two pronouns.” I said: “Who, me?” Wine time.
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Winemakers: To oak or not to oak, that is the question. Whether ’tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or to take up oak to craft your wine to shake the spheres of ordinary.
Oak and wine were made for each other. The wood and how it is treated introduces flavors compounds and textures. Oak barrels allow slow oxygenation, which engenders complexity and depth. Malolactic fermentation in oak converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid, creating a creamier, buttery texture. The winemaker must decide if oak is in the wine’s future. For some whites, the answer is no. For reds, usually yes.
Next decision—which oak to use. There are some 600 species of oak trees. They are divided into two main groups: red oaks and white oaks. In North America alone there are about 90 native species.
American white oak (Quercus alba) has wide grain and high levels of lactones, delivering flavors of vanilla, coconut, marshmallow, volume, creaminess, and sweetness. It usually receives a medium toast (flame treatment inside the barrel). It often is used for bold wines—cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah—because its robust flavors and higher oxygen ingress complement such wines.
European white oak (Quercus petraea) has finer grains. It has a more subtle influence on wine than American oak and imparts elegant flavors of vanilla and spice, and thus is preferred for lighter wines—pinot noir and chardonnay. The tight grains also mean a more measured integration of flavors, often preferred for premium wines. At medium toast, French oak imparts notes of coffee, chocolate, leather, and mushrooms. Wine must spend more time in French oak than American oak to attain these flavors.
Eastern European oak, particularly from Slovakia, Hungry, and Romania, are similar to French oak. They can be more subtle than French oak and provide more delicate flavors.
Bourbon barrels are another category, pioneered in the 20th century by Chilean mega-maker Concho y Toro with its American label, 1000 Stories. It involves using American oak, blackened and heavily charred to make bourbon and whiskey in first use. In second use with wine, the barrels deliver caramel, burnt sugar, dried herbs, coffee, and vanilla. Wine finished in bourbon barrels are only part of a blend—around five percent—but add smoothness and another layer of flavors with hint of its bourbon back story. They also are a booming category in wine because they are smooth and delicious. Wood you not be interested in trying this category?
Last round
I only know 25 letters in the alphabet. I don’t know Y. Wine time.
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What makes a great wine? There is a hard and fast answer: “great wine comes from great vineyards.”
What makes a great vineyard?
• Terroir. This is big net answer because the French term includes soil composition, climate, topography, even the culture and experience of the vineyard-winery workers.
• Soil. Different grape varieties thrive in different types of soil. Merlot is particularly suited for clay soil that holds water. Cabernet sauvignon prefers gravelly soil that drains well. Chardonnay enjoys limestone soil. Sauvignon blanc’s ideal is sandy loam. The mineral content of the soil also can enhance character and complexity.
• Climate. Well, of course. In particular, diurnal shift—the change in temperature from day to night—is a precious quality. Hot day engenders ripeness and tasty fruit, while cool nights develop balancing acidity.
• Topography. In cool climates in the Northern Hemisphere south-facing slopes maximize heat and sun exposure. In warm climates, east, north, or northeast facing slopes help avoid overheating. Water drainage, slope, and elevation all can play a part.
• Vineyard management. When nature gives you advantages, it is up to you to make the most of them. That includes decisions on farming methods. What to plant and how to plant. Pruning and canopy management are vital, a task that demands experienced vineyard workers.
Where do these elements exist? The glory of wine, engendered by wine grape diversity, is there are places all over the world where you can make good wine. From the drenching rains of Minho province in Portugal to vineyards in the Atacama Desert in Chile—the driest place on earth—to the cold climes of the Niagara Peninsula and Okanagan Valley in Canada, clever humans have figured out what grape variety, vineyard configuration, and management decisions work in their special place in creation.
After the interplay of these elements in the vineyard, the job of making great wine then falls to the artistry of winemakers. There is an almost universal agreement among great winemakers: their job is to largely stay out of the way and allow the vineyard to express itself. After all, “great wine comes from great vineyards.”
Tasting notes
• Serego Alighieri Possessioni Garganega e Sauvignon del Veneto 2021: Fresh, fruit-forward blend of garganega (the main grape of Soave) and sauvignon blanc. $20 Link to my review
• DeLille Cellars Métier Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2021: Bold but approachable. Saturated with dark fruit flavors. $23-30 Link to my review
• Texas Hills Vineyard Sangiovese, Texas High Plains, Newsom Vineyards 2015: Delicious Texas interpretation of the great red grape of Tuscany. Almost decadent ripeness. $25 Link to my review
Last round
Thank you for explaining the meaning of “many.” It means a lot to me. Wine time.
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Wine is your friend, especially when sipped with friends during a convivial meal. You are obliged to protect it from its enemies.
Classic factors that negatively impact wine quality:
• Oxygen. Exposure to oxygen can be wine’s valued friend or its mortal enemy. The key is moderation. Readers know of my advocacy of decanting—exposing wine from a freshly opened bottle to air to soften tannins, blow off odors, integrate elements. That exposure is relatively brief, measured in minutes or small number of hours. It is a common technique for red wines that also can improve some whites.
But too much oxygen is the most significant threat to wine. Too much during the winemaking process can darken white wines to a brownish hue and rob red wines of vibrant color, shifting them into orange or russet shades. Too much oxygen in opened wine will flatten its flavors and aromas. Eventually it will turn the wine into vinegar.
• Light. Ultraviolet light, both from the sun and artificial lighting, degrades wine’s flavors and aromas. That is why many wines come in dark bottles and should be stored in a dark environment.
• Heat. Higher temperatures accelerate aging and eventually spoil the wine. One telltale sign of excessive heat exposure is a cork that has lifted, also leakage of wine out of the bottle. It is best to store wine between 45 and 65 degrees F, with 55 degrees the ideal.
• Vibrations. Constant movement disturbs sediment and messes with the aging process. This especially is important for wine put down for aging.
• Humidity. Some humidity—70% is ideal—helps keep corks from drying out. Too much humidity will not affect the wine, but can lead to mold growth that damages labels.
These are things to think about, but not to obsess over. Wine is a tough hombre. Even when abused by oxygen, light, heat, vibrations, and humidity, it usually remains drinkable. It just will not deliver the same tasty pleasure you get when you treat it right.
Tasting notes
• Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley 2021: Incredibly delicious. Ste. Michelle has delivered this amazing value, wonderful riesling for years. $10-14 Link to my review
• Vallformosa Mistinguett Brut Rosé NV: Simple, safe, tasty sparkling that will offend almost no drinker or any pocketbook. $14 Link to my review
• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Chardonnay, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Mellow, well balanced, classic Napa chard, well-done oak and malo. $28-33 Link to my review
• Compris Vineyard Midnight Journey Syrah, Chehalem Mountains AVA 2021: Savory, smooth delight scores all points you look for in a syrah. $50 Link to my review
Last round
What kind of exercise do lazy people do? Diddly-squats. Wine time.
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Wine snobbery is a detestable trait. But you can be a “good” wine snob. Here’s how.
• Respect the preferences of others. Never be condescending or judgmental. Basically, don’t be a jerk. Good advice for many situations.
• Be a life-long wine learner. Wine knowledge is vast and ever-evolving. Anyone who claims to know everything about wine just proved they do not. That applies to you and your fellow wine drinkers.
• Enjoy wine. Wine is a palate pleasure, not a vehicle to flaunt status or a way to show off. Geez, please.
• Accept and appreciate the preferences of others. If you want to be a “good” wine snob, work on “tasting through someone else’s mouth.” Who knows, you may have an epiphanic moment and discover a whole new lane of delectation—maybe you will find something you like that you did not expect to like.
• If someone asks for wine advice, gently guide rather than dictate. Sublimate the tyranny of your proclivities. Instead, facilitate helping others find their own wine way.
• Celebrate diversity. There are thousands of wines made thousands of ways. That is wine’s wonder and glory. It is not your way or the highway. If it is your way or the highway, then don’t let the door hit your butt on the way out to travel that lonely road.
• Explore new horizons. When you celebrate diversity, you may stumble upon pleasures you never expected. That is the wonder of wine.
• Patience is a virtue in almost all things, including wine. Allow others to learn about wine at their own pace, and allow yourself to do the same.
This column strives to entertain and inform you about wine. Sixteen years ago, I wrote in my first column: “If a wine tastes good to you, then it’s good no matter how a wine expert responds.” I have stayed true to that proposition, and suggest you do the same. Thank each of you for being part of the journey.
Tasting notes
• J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot, Paso Robles 2021: Soft, creamy, plush mouthfeel, gains subtlety with exposure to air. Not complex, just a delicious, easy drinker. $12-17 Link to my review
• San Simeon Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles 2023: Bright, refreshing, good acidity, vivid fruit—all you want from a sauv blanc from long-time quality maker. $18-20 Link to my review
• Invivo X SJP Sarah Jessica Parker Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand 2022: Exciting, edgy NZ pinot. Real collaboration between quality maker and celebrity. Good texture and complexity. $19-27 Link to my review
Last round
What do you call Dracula when he has hay fever? The Pollen Count. Wine time.
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Even if you only dip your big toe into wine wonkiness, you likely encounter the term “malolactic fermentation” or MLF. What is that?
Well, this being wine, it actually is not fermentation, which involves yeast. It is a conversion, which involves bacteria. The primary bacteria is Oenococcus oeni—try saying that three times in a row after a couple of glasses of wine (or even before). The process is a decarboxylation conversion—malic acid turns into lactic acid. What does that mean in words of less than five syllables?
Malolactic conversion reduces acidity and softens the taste of wine. It almost always is done with red wine. It usually is done with white wines where a rounder, creamier profile is wanted. Chardonnay is classic example, as are viognier, marsanne, roussane, and white Burgundy. On the other hand, MLF usually is prevented in sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio/pinot gris, riesling, vermentino, and other whites where acidity and floral aromas are prized.
Wineries encourage MLF by inoculation of bacteria and control of temperature (warmer is better), acidity (lower is better—above 3.3 pH), and avoiding sulfur dioxide. Wineries discourage MLF by keeping temperatures lower, keeping pH less than 3.3, adding sulfur dioxide, sterile filtration, and other methods.
If you enjoy a full-bodied, creamy, buttery, smooth chardonnay, you have MLF in an oak barrel to thank. If you prefer tangy fruit, great acidity, the powerful aromatics of sauvignon blanc or riesling, you have the prevention of MLF to thank.
Almost all red wines undergo MLF. Some beaujolais nouveau wines skip MLF. Italian amarone typically does not undergo MLF. Just about every other red has MLF as part of its making regimen.
Like their color, rosé wines fall in the middle. Classic Provence rosés usually avoid MLF. Darker rosés and rosés finished in oak are much more likely to have partial of full MLF.
Sparkling wine MLF depends on the maker. Krug and Bollinger use full MLF. Louis Roederer often blocks MLF. Cristal—Louis Roederer’s prestige pour—experiences partial MLF.
Malolactic fermentation—technically malolactic conversion—is an important winemaking tool. If you have read this far, you have more than dipped your toe into wine wonkiness.
Tasting notes
• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Dry Riesling, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2022: Sleek, crisp, delicate aromatics. $22-28 Link to my review
• Sealionne Wines Halcyon Chardonnay, Chehalem Mountains AVA, Willamette Valley 2022: Unique flavors through fermentation mix of stainless steel, oak, amphora. $45 Link to my review
• Three Sticks One Sky Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021: Superb, classic Sonoma pinot from highest vineyard in the AVA. Delicious fruit, depth, length, structure. $85 Link to my review
Last round
Double negatives are a big no-no. Wine time.
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Commercialization defines wine 8-21-2024
Wine is fermented grape juice, an agricultural product like green beans and corn. But that is not how we think about wine. Why?
We think of wine as a consequence of culture rather than agri-culture. Wine is treated like an aesthetic product, similar to the arts, with special terminology, in-depth discussion and analysis, reviews by experts.
But wine also is a commercial product. It has been for thousands of years, and the special dynamics of it being a commercial product shaped wine and how you think about wine. In 2021, the most recent complete statistics, the world made 34 billion bottles of wine with a market value of $53 billion. Wine is a commercial product.
Place—“terroir”—is a central belief in wine’s mythos. As far back as ancient Greece, elites believed wines from distant places were special. The simple folk drank locally produced fermented grape juice or beer. The rich and powerful drank wine. Commercial value was enhanced by the wine coming from a distant place.
Gironde Estuary. Photo: Chell Hill
That had a major impact on where “fine wine” came from. When you mention Bordeaux your first thought is about wine, not about an estuary. But the Gironde estuary is why great wine chateaus are located on Bordeaux’s left and right banks. The sea gave chateaus trade access to England and Northern Europe, where climate prevented wine production. When you can’t produce something in your back yard and must have it shipped to you, it takes on special value you are willing to pay for.
All the great wine regions of France, Italy, and Spain—the world’s largest wine producers—are located on rivers that facilitate transport and trade. The situation creates a self-reinforcing loop. The chateaus of Bordeaux make money exporting a luxury product, then use the generated wealth to improve their product and reinforce the sophisticated image of their product and create more demand for it.
Terroir is a real thing, but it is the product of winemakers using profits to experiment and learn about what works best on their piece of land. Commercial trade is the reason wineries were located where they are. Knowledge paid for by profits from commercial trade is the reason those places became the best places to make wine.
I believe wine can be a mystical artistic expression of soaring human endeavors and the good graces of God and nature. But we got there because someone made fermented grape juice worth buying and someone else was willing to pay for it.
Last round
The past—history. The future—mystery. Today—a gift. That is why we call it the present. Wine time.
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This is a public episode. If you’d like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gusclemens.substack.com/subscribe - Visa fler
