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Matthew and Fenia continue the story of Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, following his sixth voyage to the Mughal court, his encounter with the Peacock Throne, the rough stone later known as the Hope Diamond, and the restless final chapter of one of history's most important diamond dealers.
Key Takeaways
Tavernier's sixth voyage, dated in the transcript as 1664 to 1668, is presented as the journey that made him famous.At the Mughal court, Tavernier encountered extraordinary imperial jewels, including the Peacock Throne and the rough stone later known as the Hope Diamond.The episode frames Tavernier as both adventurer and businessman, with close attention to how he classified, priced and traded diamonds.Tavernier's book matters because it preserves not just travel stories, but commercial knowledge, notes and drawings from decades of journeys.His voyages helped feed a shift in jewellery design, with large gemstones becoming a stronger focal point in European jewellery.The final part of his life reinforces the central portrait of Tavernier: wealthy, celebrated and still unable to stop travelling.Quotes
00:12:18 "There was an adventure, but it was commerce driven, I think."
00:15:05 "I think it's the people at the end of the day who made history and objects worth studying."
00:16:52 "The king was aware that Tavernier was not only gathering jewels, he was also gathering knowledge."
00:31:45 "He's widely recognized as the most important diamond dealer of the 17th century."
00:37:10 "A man who was born above a map shop in Paris who spent his life making those maps for real."
00:39:15 "He wasn't at peace unless he was on an adventure."
Resources
The Six Voyages of Jean-Baptiste Tavernier by Jean-Baptiste TavernierInternet ArchiveSmithsonian Museumwww.courtville.ie
www.gempursuit.com
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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Before the Hope Diamond had a name or a curse, it passed through the hands of one remarkable Frenchman. This episode tells the story of Jean Baptiste Tavernier, a 17th-century merchant whose six voyages to the East changed the way Europeans understood gemstones forever.
Born in Paris in 1605 to a family of map-makers and engravers, Tavernier grew up surrounded by maps and the merchants who traded in them. By 22 he had already visited most of Europe and learned the languages to go with it. He was only getting started.
Matthew and Fenya trace his first five voyages from Istanbul to India, from the Golconda mines to Dutch-controlled Batavia, ending just as Tavernier is about to open the imperial jewel casket of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. Part 2 is on the way
Key Takeaways
Your environment shapes your ambitions. Growing up in his father's map shop on the Ile de la Cite, surrounded by merchants talking about faraway countries, Tavernier later credited those conversations as the spark behind everything he did.Going against the established route can be a competitive advantage. With the Dutch and English East India Companies dominating the sea lanes, Tavernier revived the overland Silk Road instead, avoiding bigger rivals and trading along the way.Diplomatic skill matters as much as commercial skill. He carried European clocks and jewellery specifically as gifts for local rulers, smoothing his passage across dozens of borders without the backing of a powerful company behind him.His book is one of the best records we have of this era. Tavernier documented diamond mining operations, grading standards, currency exchange, and cultural customs. Historians and gemologists still reference "The Six Voyages" today.The Hope Diamond's curse may have been a marketing story. Tavernier never mentions where he acquired the blue diamond in his own accounts, and notably lived to around 80 with a long and successful life.Quotes
00:08:07 "If the effect of education may be linked to a second birth, I may truly say that I came into the world with a desire to travel... inspired me betimes with a design to see some part of those countries, which were represented to me in the maps from which I never could keep off my eyes." (Tavernier, read aloud from his book)
00:24:48 "The art of trading is the art of understanding men and their desires, whether they be in Paris or in the Indies." (Tavernier)
Resources
The Six Voyages of Jean Baptiste Tavernier by Jean Baptiste Tavernierwww.courtville.ie
www.gempursuit.com
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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Saknas det avsnitt?
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Have you ever picked up a piece of antique jewelry and wondered how it got there? Behind every brooch, ring, or sapphire in a boutique window is a network of specialists: historians, gemologists, goldsmiths, appraisers, lapidaries, and dealers, each playing a role in the journey from discovery to display case.
In this episode, Matthew Weldon of Courtville Antiques breaks down the ecosystem of the antique jewelry trade, explaining who does what, how the roles connect, and what a typical week actually looks like across the industry.
Whether you already work in the trade or are considering entering it, this episode offers a candid guide to the many career paths within antique jewelry. Drawing on his own background, from studying gemology at the GIA to running Courtville and working alongside his family’s auction house, Matthew gives an honest picture of each role’s rewards and risks. From spotting overlooked treasures to the tension of handing a six-carat Burma sapphire to a lapidary, the episode makes the case that there is a place in this business for many different skill sets.
Key Takeaways
• Antique jewelry passes through many hands before reaching a buyer, often involving researchers, gemologists, appraisers, goldsmiths, and dealers.
• Gemologists identify and assess stones scientifically, while appraisers combine those findings with market data to produce legal valuations for insurance, probate, or resale.
• Skilled lapidaries are increasingly rare, creating challenges for businesses dealing with valuable antique stones.
• Auctions and private sales operate differently: auctions are strictly “as is,” while private dealers are bound by consumer protections and guarantees.
• Content creation has become a legitimate route into the industry, with creators and journalists building careers around shows, auctions, and trade coverage.
• Matthew’s philosophy on consignment is simple: if you would not buy a piece yourself, you should not expect someone else to.
Quotes
“On average here in Courtville, I would say we would look at between three and four thousand pieces of jewelry a week... How many pieces do we buy? On average, I'd say we're buying one to two percent of the pieces that we'd see.” — 27:23
“If you lose a piece of antique jewelry, you might have to source lots of different antique stones... You'll also have to get a jeweller to hand make the piece.” — 8:38
“Never a more accurate phrase than measure twice, cut once.” — 22:54
Resources
• GIA (Gemological Institute of America)
• Gem-A, London
• Wartsky’s, London
• Courtville Antiques — www.courtville.ie
• Miami Beach Antique Show
• Jewelry, Objects and Antique Show, New York
• Galerie Apollon, The Louvre
• The Smithsonian
• The V&A
• Musée des Arts Modernes, Paris
• L’École Van Cleef & Arpels
Socials & Contact
Instagram: @gempursuitpod
Instagram: @courtvilleantiques
TikTok: @matthew.weldon
Email: [email protected]
Selected Timestamps
(1:56) Why careers in antique jewelry matter
(4:48) Gemologist
(8:00) Types of valuation
(14:19) Goldsmith and restoration
(18:45) Lapidary and diamond cutter
(26:50) Antique jewelry dealer
(32:05) Auctions vs private market
(40:50) Content creator and jewelry journalist
(44:10) Museum and curatorial roles
(45:16) Jewelry designer
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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In this special Ask Me Anything episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon answers your jewellery and gemstone questions from how antique jewellery can be dated without hallmarks, to what truly makes a great emerald, and how newcomers can begin building a career in the jewellery trade.
Along the way, Matthew discusses men’s engagement rings, buying instinct versus expertise, the changing world of online jewellery selling, and some unforgettable pieces that have passed through the shop over the years.
Questions in this episode include:
💎 How do experts date jewellery without hallmarks?
💎 What makes a high-quality emerald?
💎 How have men’s engagement rings evolved over time?
💎 What’s the oldest piece Matthew has handled?
💎 How do you get started in the jewellery industry?
💎 What courses are actually worth taking?
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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Was the legendary Orlov Diamond once the eye of a Hindu idol before becoming part of the Russian Crown Jewels? In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenis Sigkoudi unravel the extraordinary story of the 189-carat diamond tied to Mughal emperors, Catherine the Great, theft, romance, and one of history’s greatest gem mysteries.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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The Dresden Green Diamond is one of the rarest diamonds in the world and one of the most mysterious. Its vivid green colour looks almost unnatural… but it’s entirely real.
In this episode, we explore how this extraordinary gem gets its colour from natural radiation deep within the Earth, why that makes it so exceptionally rare, and how it became one of Europe’s most treasured jewels. From royal collections to scientific fascination, the Dresden Green has captivated experts and admirers for centuries.
Is it really too green to be true? Or is it proof that nature can outdo even the most ambitious jeweller?
This is part of our ongoing diamond series.
If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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For generations, the antique jewellery trade has been built on discretion, reputation and knowledge passed quietly from one dealer to another.
But that world is changing.
In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew sits down with The Jewel Geek to explore what it means to develop an eye for antique jewellery in a more open, digital age.
From early experiences buying at auction to building a network of trusted dealers, Brinder shares how his taste has evolved and how a combination of instinct, study and building relationships has helped him build a strong reputation in his short time in the trade.
Along the way, they discuss the realities of the trade: overpaying, missing out, learning to recognise quality, and understanding what actually sells. They also reflect on the growing role of social media, the importance of educating new collectors, and why antique jewellery may be more relevant now than ever.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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In this episode of Gem Pursuit, we tell the extraordinary story of one of history’s greatest lost diamonds - the legendary Florentine.
A pale yellow diamond of almost 140 carats, the Florentine passed through some of Europe’s most powerful dynasties, from the Medici family to the Habsburg emperors, before disappearing in the chaos that followed the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
For more than a century, its fate remained one of the great unsolved mysteries in gem history. Was it stolen, recut, or lost forever?
Now, after over 100 years in the shadows, the Florentine has resurfaced - and its survival opens a new chapter in a story shaped by empire, exile, war and inheritance.
In this episode, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the stone’s disputed origins, its links to the Mughal world, its place in the Habsburg treasury, and the remarkable events that led to its rediscovery.
This is part three of our ongoing diamond series.
If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen, and if you have a moment, please rate and review the show on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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In the second part of our diamond series, we turn from science to history.
After exploring how diamonds form and how they are cut in Part I, this episode follows the extraordinary journey of the diamond through human history. From the ancient riverbeds of India to the great discoveries in Brazil and South Africa, we trace how diamonds moved across continents, empires and centuries.
Along the way we explore how diamond cutting evolved from simple polishing of natural crystals to increasingly sophisticated faceting techniques that transformed the stone’s beauty. From the earliest point cuts and table cuts to the rose cut, old mine cut and the beginnings of the modern brilliant, each development reflects changing technology, taste and the growing desire to unlock the diamond’s brilliance.
This is the story of how a rare natural curiosity became one of the most important gemstones in jewellery history.
In the next episode of this series, we’ll turn to one of the most mysterious diamonds ever known - the legendary Florentine.
If you enjoyed the episode, make sure you’re subscribed wherever you listen to podcasts, and if you have a moment please leave us a rating or review on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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Diamonds form over billions of years, deep within the Earth's mantle under unimaginable pressure. But what makes them truly extraordinary isn’t only what nature creates - it’s also what human hands choose to do next.
In the first episode of our diamond series, we return to the stone we haven’t properly explored since the very early days of the podcast and ask a big question: where does nature end and craft begin?
We unpack how diamonds are formed, revisit the 4 Cs, and take a close look at the one element entirely controlled by people: cut. What does a cutter actually do? How do they decide what to sacrifice and what to preserve? And why can a great cut transform a cloudy pebble into something unforgettable?
www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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What is the most recognisable symbol in jewellery history? The heart.
In this Valentine’s special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the enduring story of the heart motif — a symbol that has carried secret messages, sealed romantic promises, and expressed devotion for centuries.
We begin in the ancient world, where the heart was believed to be the centre of the soul, and trace how medieval courtly love helped shape the heart into a romantic emblem. From early love tokens and poetic brooches to protective witch hearts and crowned double hearts, the symbol evolved into a powerful visual language of love, loyalty, and longing.
The episode also explores the Victorian era’s obsession with sentimental heart jewellery, from Queen Victoria’s personal charm bracelets to mourning lockets containing hair and portraits. Moving into the 20th century, we look at wartime sweetheart lockets and Elsa Peretti’s revolutionary Open Heart design, which transformed the motif into a modern design icon.
Finally, we turn to some of history’s most spectacular heart-shaped jewels, including Elizabeth Taylor’s Taj Mahal diamond, the legendary Blue Heart Diamond, and the technically astonishing Graff Venus — alongside iconic heart jewels worn by figures from Wallis Simpson to Lady Gaga.
From intimate love tokens to world-famous gemstones, the heart has remained jewellery’s most timeless symbol — and it’s not going anywhere any time soon.
www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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Andy Warhol is one of the most recognisable artists of the 20th century, but after his death in 1987, it was what he owned that truly shocked the art world. Hidden inside his New York townhouse was a vast, obsessive, and deeply personal collection: furniture, fine art, kitsch, cookie jars, watches… and an extraordinary cache of jewellery he never wore in public.
In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol the collector — from flea-market finds to Cartier, from Elsa Peretti for Tiffany to surrealist jewels by Salvador Dalí, modernist designs by Jean Després and the aquamarine parure once worn by Joan Crawford.
We unpack the legendary Sotheby’s auctions that followed his death, the records they broke, and the moment a second secret stash of jewels and watches was discovered hidden in false-bottom drawers. A story of taste, obsession, secrecy, and the quiet extravagance behind one of art’s loudest icons.
www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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As the year turns, Matthew takes stock. In this New Year episode, he reflects on 2025 through the lens of a year spent travelling, learning, and paying close attention — from attending international fairs and events, to being nominated for and attending the TikTok Awards, and being elected to the Company of Goldsmiths in Dublin.
The conversation then widens to eight years in business at the shop, looking at what has genuinely changed in the jewellery world over that time — from the growing role of social media and self-education, to shifting ideas of expertise and authority. Matthew considers the rise of AI and digital tools in identifying antiques and reproductions, and where human knowledge, judgement, and experience still matter most.
Finally, he looks ahead to 2026, sharing thoughts on the metals, stones, styles, and movements that feel increasingly significant, as well as the fairs and moments worth watching in the year to come.
A considered reflection on jewellery, experience, and perspective — and on how the industry continues to evolve, often in unexpected ways.www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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In this festive special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew and Fenia answer your brilliant listener questions in a cosy, end-of-year Ask Us Anything special.
From spotting the subtle clues that date antique jewellery, to underrated gemstones, lost craft techniques, emotional motifs, and even the idea of cursed pieces, this episode is a wide-ranging chat for anyone who loves jewellery history and storytelling.
✨ Questions covered include:
• How do you really spot the characteristics of different jewellery eras?
• What gemstones deserve more love (and why does peridot divide opinion)?
• Old-cut diamonds you don’t see used today
• Can jewellery be cursed — and what should you do if it is?
• The most popular antique engagement ring settings
• Identifying yellow gemstones in antique rings
• Lost art forms and skills antique jewellers mastered
• Motifs with the deepest emotional power — then and now
• Paste jewellery and how it was historically worn
• How to spot gold plating versus solid gold (without testing)
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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Jane Morris was a muse of the Pre-Raphaelites, a central figure in the early Arts & Crafts movement and the quietly powerful presence at the heart of an influential artistic circle.
In this episode, Matthew and Fenia explore the story behind Rossetti’s The Blue Silk Dress, focusing on the jewellery Jane wears and the symbolism carried within the portrait.
Drawing only on what is known from surviving records, letters and the painting itself, we trace Jane’s path from Oxford to her role within the Morris household and the artistic world that formed around it. The bracelet, the brooch, the rich textiles and embroidery — each reflects the ideals that would shape both the Pre-Raphaelite and Arts & Crafts movements.
www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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In this episode, we explore Andy Warhol’s silkscreen print portrait of Caroline of Monaco, created for Vogue in the early 1980s. We discuss the bold colours, big hair, bare-back pose, and the striking sapphire-and-diamond jewels that define the portrait’s 1980s style. We also look at the pop art movement, celebrity culture, and Caroline’s reputation as the “rebel princess”.
Beyond the portrait, we dive into two extraordinary pieces connected to Caroline: a Belle Époque reed stomacher symbolising resilience, and a 1910 platinum and blue-enamel Valkyrie-style headpiece with detachable wings. The conversation highlights her creative, versatile approach to jewellery and the multifaceted personality reflected in her portraits and pieces.
www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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In the latest episode of our Jewellery in Paintings series Matthew is joined by Courtville historian Fenia Sigkoudi to explore The Drake Jewel - a magnificent Renaissance pendant that intertwines art, politics and piracy!
Once gifted by Queen Elizabeth I to Sir Francis Drake, the jewel tells an extraordinary story of ambition, power and symbolism.
Matthew and Fenia trace how this locket became a statement of status, propaganda and personal connection between monarch and privateer. From its intricate cameo to its hidden “mask of youth” portrait, this episode uncovers the legacy of one of England’s most storied treasures.
www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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In this special episode of Gem Pursuit, we turn from the past to the present — and to one of the most daring jewellery thefts in recent memory.
In October 2025, eight pieces of the French Crown Jewels were stolen in broad daylight from the Louvre’s Galerie d’Apollon. Valued at €88 million, the missing treasures include the tiara of Empress Eugénie and the emeralds of Empress Marie Louise — jewels once worn at the height of imperial splendour, now vanished without a trace.
Matthew unpacks what happened, how the heist unfolded, and the remarkable stories behind each stolen piece. Were the thieves experts, opportunists, or just reckless? And could these legendary jewels one day resurface — as they have so many times before in history?
Watch this episode on YouTube and follow @gempursuitpod on Instagram for more stories from the world of antique jewellery.
www.courtville.ie
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck.
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In this brand new series of Gem Pursuit, we step into the world of fine art to uncover the jewels hidden on canvas. Jewellery in Paintings explores how artists captured the sparkle, symbolism, and status of gems throughout history.
We begin with one of the most iconic images in Western art: Johannes Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Often called the “Mona Lisa of the North,” this enigmatic portrait has fascinated viewers for centuries. But what about the jewel itself? In this episode, we explore the mystery of the pearl, what it reveals about 17th-century Dutch society, and why such a simple adornment continues to shine as a timeless ideal of beauty.
Whether you’re standing in front of the painting in The Hague or simply picturing it in your mind, this episode offers a sparkling new perspective on an old master.
www.courtville.ie
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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
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Matthew and Alyce welcome back renowned antique jewellery specialist Michael Singer, Director of Acquisitions at Windsor, New York.
Michael shares stories of some remarkable adventures from his decades in the trade including trading a 15th-century manuscript for a Kashmir sapphire, finding a one-of-a-kind Tiffany necklace with ties to the French royal family and bending the rules of an auction...for love!
Michael also reflects on the lost buzz of New York’s 47th Street, the importance of trusting your instincts, the influence of his father on his career and also shares numerous insider tips such as which antique jewellery he thinks is the most undervalued collectible in America today.
www.courtville.ie
Get social with Courtville, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok
This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck
- Visa fler
