Avsnitt
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In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier.
You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym.
Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains!
Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels.
*** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). ***
In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds!
Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge factors in determining how holds feel and will work for a given move. Last but not least, there’s your skin quality and the structure of your fingertips. Pulpy (fleshy) tips can deform around tiny rock rugosities to give a better grip on tiny holds and, similarly, skin that’s got adequate moisture and elasticity will stick to holds better than thick, dry, callused skin which yields a glassy and slippery grip.
It's the latter topic of skin quality and specifically chalk-use to optimize grip that we’ll explore today. To help shed some light on this topic, I've got Kevin Brown, co-founder and CEO of Friction Labs chalk, to download on us some of the science of chalk and skin performance.
So lean in and chalk up for this grip-enhancing episode of the T4C podcast!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Intro to skin performance and grip--what things affect the quality of your grip?
3:00 - Overview of chalk and the role of "dryness".
6:00 - The effect of humidity, personal skin quality, and chalk use as it relates to skin wear and climbing performance.
8:35 - Use of Collagen powder supplements to improve skin elasticity, strength, and recovery of damaged skin.
9:20 - Importance of making quality efforts on skin-hard boulders and routes--save skin by making just a few quality attempts over many quick, low-quality attempts.
10:00 - Are all chalks basically the same? Kevin reveals the vast differences in chalk formulations!
14:00 - What's the optimal amount of chalk to have on your fingers?
16:30 - How chalk products on the market vary. Are added drying agents helpful?
19:30 - Common contaminants in chalk...and how they adversely affect grip.
21:10 - The genesis of Friction Labs...and new product development.
22:00 - The utility of liquid chalks--who will benefit from it and how to use it for optimal skin performance while climbing.
24:00 - Difference uses of alcohol-containing chalk versus alcohol-free liquid chalk.
25:00 - Is "drier always better"? What are the pros and cons of various drying agents such as Dry Hands, Carpe, AntiHydral, etc.
28:00 - The importance of developing a personalized skin-care routine... Tips on washing chalk off skin after climbing...and moisturizing skin.
31:00 - How to dry out your chalk...if it gets wet from rain...or deep water soloing.
31:35 - Responsible use of chalk, tick marks, brushing practices, etc.
35:50 - Closing comments and coupon codes
*** Friction Labs special offer for T4C podcast listeners -- Save 15% at FrictionLabs.com with checkout code: T4C15 ***
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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Saknas det avsnitt?
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Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever!
In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January.
One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of consistent aerobic energy system training, especially for route climbers, and he provides details on important changes he's made to both his daily diet and sleep habits.
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Intro to the most transparent TFC podcast ever!
3:10 - The need to perform an end-of-season "gap analysis". What needs to be done to reach big goals in 2024?
7:37 - The importance of willpower! And one of my favorite quotes: "The will to prepare for success is more important than the will of success."
10:18 - Eric details his personal gap analysis -- a very transparent examination of the things he feels are holding him back.
15:42 - Breakdown of the 4 Action Items in Eric's winter training program.
21:20 - Intro to Eric's winter training plan
22:17 - Action Item #1: Train to become a stronger, more powerful climber on bouldery sequences. Eric provides rich detail on how he's employed twice weekly Kilter Board training to achieve this goal.
29:20 - Eric takes you through his typical Kilter Board workout....from warm up to cool down.
40:00 - Eric shares some of his Kilterboard videos on Instagram: @Kilter_ehorst -- Follow Eric's FA boulders on the Kilter Board app via his username: ehorst
40:45 - Action Item #2: Maintain climbing-specific and generalized aerobic fitness through the winter training season. Lots of important details here for route climbers.
46:05 - Pro climber Amity Warme's incredible 2023 climbing season, finger injury, and rehab protocol and comeback story. Read a full article with details here >>
Read the latest research summaries of daily collagen use >>
51:30 - Action Item #3: Drop a few pounds of body fat...and get back to my "fighting weight" of previous years. Listen to Eric's major dietary changes.
1:08:35 - Action Item #4: Improve my sleep habits...to optimize recovery, health, and wellness. Learn about Eric's interventions and data gathering in this important area.
1:16:06 - Closing comments: Learn one of the key traits of top pro climbers that Eric works with or knows.
1:18:00 - Dear listener, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life?
Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too!
Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest to level up your performance in climbing, career, and beyond!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Greetings and Happy New Year!
0:50 - Use the new year to evaluate your life across the board...and make course corrections!
3:20 - Introduction to Eric's "Mental Wings" concepts and strategies
5:02 - Overview of human performance -- YOU, dear listener, are far more powerful than you can possibly imagine!
12:30 - Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). International climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop >>
14:30 - 15 Mental Wings concepts and strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
16:30 - #1: Your quality of life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts
18:15 - #2: Human beings are the embodiment of unused potential.
19:00 - #3: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do.
21:10 - #4: Clarity of values and goals, and a clear purpose for living form the foundation for a life full of rich, transcending experiences.
22:10 - #5: Risk is a precursor to reward.
23:15 - #6: Almost anything is possible once you conquer fear.
26:12 - #7: Singular focus and indomitable persistence knows no limits.
27:30 - #8: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger.
29:55 - #9: A fit body potentiates a fit mind.
30:20 - #10: Life is subtle—sweat the small stuff!
33:47 - #11: Your future is largely determined in the brief moment between stimulus and response (in any activity).
35:15 - #12: Maintain a dynamic, evolving life process by reinventing yourself from time to time.
36:55 - #13: Enjoy this moment—this moment is your life.
37:47 - #14: Unconditional love is the most powerful force in the universe.
38:20 - #15: In the final analysis, you are mostly self-made.
40:25 - Summary thoughts -- please share this podcast with a friend...or on your Social Media. (Thanks!)
42:00 - Send off!
A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".
This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it!
Lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I’ll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Welcome
0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt the performance gains
3:09 - Let's get started...and elevate our training and climbing!
3:55 - Mistake #1: Not having an intelligent plan for each training session.
5:40 - Mistake #2: Making every workout a competition with yourself.
9:40 - Mistake #3: "Cramming” training before a weekend trip, competition, or longer road trip.
Learn about the performance nutrition used by Top Pros - Get 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
14:25 - Mistake #4. Training through injury.
Listen to previous injury podcast on the "perfect storm" for getting injured.
22:28 - Mistake #5: Following someone else’s training plan (i.e. copy cat training)
25:35 - Mistakes #6: Training your strengths….ignoring your weaknesses.
31:35 - Mistake #7: Training hard and smart, but failing to get adequate sleep and proper nutrition to support your training.
39:02 - Bonus...Mistake #8: Engaging a various acts of self-sabotage.
42:00 - Summary thoughts.
Please check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
43:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.
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In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.
I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Greetings
0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium
1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine
3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC.
DAY 1 (abridged)
7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl
7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers.
9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA)
10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers
11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom.
13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps?
15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers
17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders)
DAY 2 (abridged)
18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline
22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction
23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts
24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers
27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse
DAY 3 (abridged)
30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. Get it here >>
31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance
32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness
32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. Listen to Episode #22 first >>
33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance.
36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.
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What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year.
This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end!
Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending.
With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November.
Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND!
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Welcome message.
00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season!
2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins.
4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing there? What's your "super bowl"...that is, the most important project boulder or route?
8:42 - #2: Spend less time strength training and more time climbing! Over the coming weeks, taper off climbing-specific strength exercises and put down the heavy free weights until your next off-season.
12:25 - #3: Consider your body composition--is it currently optimal for climbing your best on steep boulders and long, overhanging routes? If not, what calorie-dense junk/pleasure foods can you reduce or eliminate until after send season is over? Consider running a few days per week to increase caloric expenditure and spin-up cardiovascular fitness (especially helpful for route climbers).
19:52 - Summary points
22:12 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
23:00 - LET'S GET THE SEND TRAIN ROLLING!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by The Police (Remixes)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well.
In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day.
In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors you should consider in determining how often you should take a rest day from climbing. The optimal climbing-to-rest-day ratio can differ greatly depending on your climbing goals, training history, age, and recovery ability, among other things.
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Welcome message.
1:30 - The value of climbing roadtrips
2:36 - Intro to optimizing your climbing day to rest day ratio while on a roadtrip.
The 4 primary factors that come into play in getting it right.
6:12 - Factor #1: The length of your climbing trip.
13:28 - Factor #2: The type of climbing you're engaging in.
17:34 - Factor #3: Your age and recovery ability.
25:50 - Factor #4: The weather!
30:10 - Eric's wrap-up and closing comments.
Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
30:50 - Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by The Police (Remixes)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!
Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies.
However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each.
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode
1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing)
2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!
4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events.
10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types.
>> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >>
12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering.
16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing.
>> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of running for climbers >>
21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time.
23:50 - Summary points
25:00 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by The Police (Remixes)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode.
The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c.
The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst.
Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to jump on the intimidating, overhanging pumpfest known as Kaleidoscope, a route I've gawked at many times but never seriously considered working on.
I'll share with you my process of working this route and how the redpoint "just happened" one day. You'll learn many mental, technical, and tactical tips that you can adopt or modify to improve your climbing performance!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Greetings
0:50 - Intro to "surprise send" episode -- a sport climbing performance case study.
2:40 - The backstory...
4:35 - Leveraging my current assets as a veteran climber. What I've got going for me!
6:22 - The importance of recovery--my sleep and nutrition habits.
7:30 - My current knuckle pain...and "climbing around it".
8:10 - Stalling out on last season's project climb...
9:35 - Being "fit" but not "strong".
9:50 - Entering the Kaleidoscope!
13:25 - The process, in detail.
15:25 - Details of the crux beta. (SKIP if you're planning an onsight attempt on the climb!)
17:20 - Summary of Day 1 on Kaleidoscope
18:20 - Details of my day 2 and day 3 work on the project...
20:25 - Day 4 progress. Two one-hang goes! Close, yet miles away...
22:20 - Day 5 -- Easter Sunday attempts on the proj.
24:00 - Send go #1
25:15 - A small, but vital discovery...
26:28 - Send go #2 -- Watch the send video here >>
29:45 - My love of never-ending learning as a climber (and beyond).
31:00 - Question: Why do we climb?
31:40 - Closing comments.
31:50 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
32:40 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.
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What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end.
In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first wrote a training program about 3 years ago. Since then, Ryan's become a solid 5.12a/b climber with redpoints up to 5.12d. But taking it to the next level will require a modified and comprehensive program...which is the focus of our discussion.
Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-paced episode gives a scientific basis for helping you determine if doing some running could enhance your climbing performance.
RUNDOWN
0:14 - Welcome
1:00 - Introduction to "running for climbing".
2:20 - The problem with training sound bites and memes...
4:32 - 4 ways that running (or other generalized cardiovascular conditioning, such as swimming, rowing, biking, etc.) can support a higher level of climbing performance
5:08 - #1. Research has shown that more cardiovascular fit climbers recover faster. This means greater recovery on marginal mid-route rests and faster recovery between boulders, routes, and exercises.
8:02- How your resting heart rate can be used as a measure of your cardiovascular fitness.
9:42 - #2. Greater generalized aerobic conditioning will improve stamina for long days of bouldering, climbing, training, and performing at elevation.
11:10 - #3. Regular generalized conditioning can help improve your body composition and increase your strength-to-weight ratio.
13:02 - #4: Running or other cardio has been shown to improve mental state, mood, and energy.
14:24 - Recap: 8 take-home points about running (and other cardio exercises) for climbing.
Running will not improve your climbing technique/skill. Running will accelerate your recovery at mid-climb rests and between exercises and climbs. Running will increase stamina for long days of bouldering, training, and climbing. Running can help optimize your body composition, thus increasing your strength-to-weight ratio. Running can improve mood and energy. Running (or other cardio exercises) must be done at moderate intensity and duration. 2 to 4 days per week for 20 to 40 minutes each. Run on rest days from climbing, or as part of a 2-a-day workout schedule. Do NOT let your running (or other cardio) escalate to excessive amounts that create excessive fatigue or take away from climbing time.20:20 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
21:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and climbing performance. Leveraging his decades of experience as a climbing coach and 30 years engaging with climbing researchers, Eric tells an empowering story of how the average climber can pursue peak climbing performance.
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Welcome
0:40 - First in a series of podcasts examining the role of genetics, physical strength/power, body weight, and dietary and nutritional practices on training adaptions and climbing performance.
2:06 - The focus of this podcast is the fascinating topic of the role that genetics play in determining climbing performance.
2:30 - Brief backstory on Eric and Training For Climbing.
5:00 - Intro to the role genetics play in climbing performance. Eric describes the 4 parts of this podcast:
Eric will share his general observations about climbing performance given his 46 years as a climber...and 30+ years as a climbing researcher and coach. Next, Eric will provide a research-based overview of the role genetic traits play in sports performance in general. Eric will drill down into the data on the influence genetics might have in determining maximal bouldering and lead climbing performance. Eric provides a coaching perspective for the mass of climbing wanting to improve in climbing. How meaningful, really, are genetics in determining how the average passionate climber will perform over the years as a gym climber, boulderer, or lead climber?6:05 - Part 1: Eric's general observations and 4 powerful take-home points about climbing as a recreational activity and sport.
10:00 - Part 2: The Role of Genetics in athletic performance...and sports in general. What does genetic research reveal?
18:42 - Part 3: What Role does genetics play in climbing? What does the research reveal?
30:15 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
32:00 - Part 4: The real-life implications of the genetic research...and what it means passionate climbers wanting to excel at this sport?
37:45 - A brief look at epigenetics -- the study of how our behaviors and environment can cause changes that affect the way our genes work. How can we play a role in epigenetic changes...to improve health, fitness, and climbing performance?
40:45 - Summary of key points and actionable items.
43:30 - Best best climber in the world is....
43:45 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
44:00 - Check out PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).
44:35 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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If you're passionate about improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas....then this is a must-listen podcast!
With the perspective of a new year's renewal, Coach Hörst explains the power of making occasional training, climbing, and life “edits” in the quest for peak performance and a deeper sense of joy and happiness.
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Welcome
0:48 - The importance of "editing" -- in writing...and in training, climbing, and living effectively!
4:33 - You are the author of your training (and life), so it's essential that you act with intention!
6:43 - #1: EDIT your daily and weekly schedule to maximize time spent engaged in important activities.
14:13 - #2: EDIT your training to provide optimal results, not maximal fatigue.
24:22 - #3: EDIT your thoughts and self-talk to create a state of mind for massive action towards your goals.
33:03 - #4: EDIT your diet and nutrition to support energy, focus, strength gains, recovery ability, and injury resistance.
41:28 - #5: EDIT your stress levels. Strive to reduce (or eliminate) "bad stress", while seeking out and embracing sources of good stress.
48:48 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
49:28 - Closing comments on the power of climbing.
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make!
Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Launch into the New Year healthy, motivated, and with a plan for reaching your training and climbing goals!
RUNDOWN
00:43 - Intro to 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)
01:40 - Learn a powerful decision-making mantra to help avoid gross errors in training, risk management, and more!
03:28 - Mistake #1: Not taking an inventory of the past year's successes (and not counting your blessings).
05:42 - Mistake #2: Not analyzing the causes of your climbing shortcomings and/or setbacks.
08:14 - Mistake #3: Ignoring your end-of-season aches and pains.
14:28 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
16:14 - Mistake #4: Not engaging in a brief "deload" period of reduced training intensity and/or frequency.
18:12 - Mistake #5: Taking a nearly total break from all training and climbing for many weeks or months.
21:45 - Mistake #6: Putting on a "Winter 10" (i.e. ~10 pounds of off-season weight gain).
25:20 - Mistake #7: Not setting a few compelling climbing goals for the new year...and not developing a training program and system for reaching those specific goals.
28:55 - Here are a few must-listen T4C episodes on developing training programs and a system for success:
Podcast #57 – A Simple System for Extreme Success!
Podcast #59: Back to Basics – Effective Training for Climbing
Podcast #70 – A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing…and Beyond!
Podcasts #73 & #74 – 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing!
29:48 - Bonus Mistake to Avoid Making: Engaging in holiday "party tricks!"
31:00 - Closing comments and Eric's Best Wishes for the Holiday and New Year!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. Now that it's "game day", what can you do nutritionally to support—and perhaps enhance—your performance?
This content-dense FLASH edition of the T4C podcast will serve up actionable steps you can take, including how much water your should drink, the types and amounts of foods to consume, and possible ergogenic supplements that might give you an extra edge when climbing at your limit.
RUNDOWN
0:25 - Intro to "FLASH edition" #2 of the Training For Climbing podcast
1:30 - TOPIC: Performance nutrition for a crag day or bouldering session.
2:50 - Part #1 - How much water should you drink? This depends on many things, including the temperature and humidity, the length and rigor of your session, and your hydration status at the start of your climbing day. Listen in for details.
6:16 - Part #2 - What foods...and how much should you consume? This will depend heavily on the length and intensity of your bouldering session or climbing day. Learn Eric's snack suggestions for sustaining energy throughout the day.
10:30 - Part #3 - What supplements, if any, might acutely enhance game-day performance? The list is short...but Eric reveals a few items that are proven to enhance strength and endurance among hard-working athletes.
16:36 - Wrap up and sponsor message.
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek...to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend. It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I'll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your weekday training. I'll also touch on some important non-training influences on your weekend climbing--arriving at the boulders or crag 100% ready to send is more than just a matter of physical preparation.
0:25 - Intro to the new "FLASH edition" of the Training For Climbing podcast
1:30 - TOPIC: Effective Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (aka. Workweek training for the Weekend Warrior)
3:12 - Part #1 - The goals of weekday training....and how many days to climb/train? Weekday training should be designed to maintain energy system power, sharpen skills, and allow for enough rest to "peak" for weekend sending.
4:50 - Part #2 - What to do when you train? Limit serious weekday training/climbing to just two days (for most people that's two sessions, although for some elites it may be 2-a-day workouts on 2 days)....this could be Tuesday/Wednesday or Tuesday/Thursday. Which is right for you?
8:32 - Part #3 - The influence of non-climbing/non-training activities on your climbing performance. What you do when you're NOT climbing/training during the weekdays is massively important -- sleep, diet/nutrition, managing stress, and staying motivated to crush come the weekend are all vital factors.
11:00 - Wrap up and sponsor message.
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.
Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more.
RUNDOWN
3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing
4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence.
10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day.
14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags.
20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage.
26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing.
SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Endure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
32:45 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta.
39:15 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta.
41:13 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts?
44:35 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you!
45:45 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer...
50:45 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally.
52:00 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it!
54:45 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time.
58:15 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business.
1:00:10 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page.
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
- Visa fler
