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  • REWIND TIME! Two and a half years ago, I paddled through an impact zone of technophobia, stagefright, and impostor syndrome to launch an experiment called the Dropping In To Power podcast. My question: Had other women's lives been transformed by surfing like mine had, and did they want to talk about it, and did anyone want to listen? Yes, yes, and yes, it turns out.

    It also turns out, that transformation is never-ending. I looked at the calendar today, and realized that more than 3 months have passed since my last podcast!

    The reason is simple. I've been hypnotized.

    And, hypnotizing.

    I have touched on this in the podcast over the last months, and now it is real! I have just launched my hypnotherapy practice, which I love so much that the unthinkable has happened. I actually forgetting to surf.

    Kind of.

    I'm so into what I'm learning, and doing, that I miss the window, and instead, spend time mind-surfing, and studying how hypnosis can enhance surfing - in performance and potential, in removing blocks, and in supporting mental health. The next podcast, in fact, will be a lesson in self-hypnosis, and how you can apply these tools to improve your own surfing.

    I may then do some live sessions, or more storytime, who knows? We'll see what you think!

    In the meantime, the stories are so alive! I want to reshare some of the most popular episodes of Dropping In, starting with the fearless, incomparable, Aurelie, who trusted me even though I had absolutely no idea what I was doing. Until we started.

    Aurรฉlie is so vulnerable, fearless and funny - and I am forever grateful for her trusting her stories to a person who had NEVER done an interview before! If you missed this episode, you will love her. If you already love her, well, here you go! And you might also notice how far women's surfing has come in just this short time.

    More info on hypnotherapy sessions: www.droppingintopower.com or email [email protected].

    ORIGINAL EPISODE NOTES: My very first guest is Aurรฉlie Madec, a born storyteller with a divine accent. Aurรฉlie is a teacher, surfer, and mother, who sculpted her career and life around her passion for surfing. In our conversation, she shares many pieces of her life, from her pioneering grandmother, having to save pocket money for her first board, traveling the whole world to surf, being a part of Surfing Mums in Australia, transitioning from cold water to warm and back to cold again. She also reveals her favorite surf spots on earth, how she has navigated serious injury, some deep surf wisdom, and the thrill of bringing the healing power of surfing to others. Now based in Cornwall, she volunteers locally with a surf therapy charity, https://www.waveproject.co.uk/

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  • "Auntie Mo" - Maureen McNamara - Maine

    On Halloween of 2023, when Surfline shared her (now viral) video, we fell in love with a salty New England surfer hurling clean insults and sage advice to an offending โ€œwhippasnappaโ€ in the lineup. โ€œAuntie Moโ€ barreled into our hearts and has since graced our feeds with her elixir of deep surf knowledge, self-deprecating humor, and truly helpful surf (and life) tips embedded in gentle ribbing. Talking to the "the whole Mo," I discovered that โ€œAuntie Moโ€ is a character she created to manage her own grumpiness about the bulging surf scene and her bodyโ€™s refusal to act like a grom. For the usual flow of this podcast, Moโ€™s story is in reverse. An accomplished surfer since youth, she is learning to bring a beginnerโ€™s stoke back to her surfing as her ability declines. The whole Mo does not disappoint! She is brilliant, compassionate, articulate, thoughtful, kind, and funny. She is also an incredible talent - writer, photographer, shaper, triathlete, and storyteller. You may be surprised to hear the accent slip away, but the heart and soul of โ€œAuntie Moโ€ shine through every moment in our interview as she espouses her ultimate mission: "Share the stoke, and spread the stoke.โ€ But heart-forward as she is, she is no shrinking violet. She has plenty to say about how contests temporarily killed surfboard innovation, why so many people are still riding the wrong boards, and why surfers need to play not just the big notes, but the long ones.

    @waterwoman74 on IG
    Waterwomanphotography on fB

    Links to the Surfline posts -

    The one that started it all: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CywQqHQxAz8/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

    Wetsuit Truth Bombhttps://www.instagram.com/reel/Czy2tQAREHq/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

    Video we reference that the journalist shot and Surfline edited:https://www.instagram.com/reel/C09qJLmRHSx/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

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  • โ€œMoments before drowning, she became the sea.โ€ - Mermaidโ€™s Lament

    In this episode, we temporarily ditch our surfboards and plunge into the raw power of the ocean, its intersection with salvation, and creativity. I talk with the director and stars of Mermaidโ€™s Lament, a film about trauma, grief, resilience, imagination andโ€ฆmermaids! Shot entirely on the island of Hawaii with a regional cast and crew, director GB Hajim has created, in his words, โ€œa love letter to all people who find peace in the ocean.โ€ Stars Dayva Summer Escobar and Justina Mattos share their stories of breath-holding, fire-breathing, reef-harrowing ocean stunts, the surreal experience of being surrounded by dozens of mermaids, the development of trust, and the power of risk. We dig into the heart of art, and I couldnโ€™t help but feeling, as we talked, that perhaps this surge in womenโ€™s surfing, and womenโ€™s community, is its own art form. As Dayva says, โ€œOur job as human beings is to tell stories and share experiences that make everybody else feel less alone.โ€ And, in surfing, art, and life, may we all follow GBโ€™s advice, โ€œGo out there and fail wondrously.โ€ Listen and enjoy the passion and brilliance of these deeply authentic artists and if you are on the island, donโ€™t miss it on the big screen!

    11/17, 7pm, Hilo Palace Theater Tickets: https://ticketing.uswest.veezi.com/purchase/716?siteToken=gm8khysj2xp8q7h501dqxk57cg

    Silent Auction of Movie Memorabilia to benefit the Palace: https://givebutter.com/c/mermaidslament/auction

    11/25, 7pm, Aloha Theatre Tickets: https://prod5.agileticketing.net/websales/pages/info.aspx?evtinfo=347091

    12/15, 5:30pm Honoka'a People's Theater: TBA

    @mermaidslament

    Mentions @sharksofhawaii, @oneoceandiving

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  • Para surfer Victoria Feige, the winningest female adaptive surfer on record, unveils her inner nerd and offers us a breakthrough that will rock your world: a simple, visual explanation of the mechanics of the DUCK DIVE and WAVE MECHANICS. I promise, you will have an AHA moment! At heart, beyond her injury, Victoria is just a girl who LOVES to surf and has thought a LOT about it (and a lot of other things). Our convo touches on how hands make us human, how resilience informs grit, how neuroscience is sexy (isnโ€™t it, though?) Trained as a physiotherapist who has been both a patient and a clinician, Victoriaโ€™s knowledge of the brain and body informs her mission to follow her joy. Her observation that many of us are born with bodies or challenges we didnโ€™t choose makes her approach to surfing, and life, universal. She also has fantastic advice for would-be adaptive surfers on equipment and wetsuits, available on her site, victoriafeigesurfing.com (I say it wrong in the podcast!) Listen to Victoria!

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    For more info on Victoriaโ€™s story, see these two articles.

    https://www.theglobeandmail.com/sports/article-paralympic-surfer-victoria-feige-knows-how-to-be-strong-in-the-water/

    https://www.buttermag.io/surf/victoria-feige/

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  • ๐Ÿ„โ€โ™€๏ธโ€œSurfing well with a smile is the best revenge.โ€ Mindy Pennybacker ๐Ÿ„โ€โ™€๏ธ Mindy Pennybacker, lifelong soul surfer, author, journalist, and surf columnist for the Honolulu Star-Advertiser, just released the gorgeous tome, Surfing Sisterhood Hawaii, a history, celebration, and, really, guidebook for how women have ruled and can rule the waves! Her axiom, โ€œOur place is in the waves," leaps off of every page, a celebration of ordinary and extraordinary women surfers with a shared love of surfing. Mindyโ€™s personal story spans the whole saga of women elbowing their way onto waves from Gidget to today, and glorious moments in between the jostling. Mindy jokingly calls herself a โ€œbrain in a jar,โ€ which is accurate only in reference to her intelligence and wit. In this episode, we cover a lot of ground! She recounts tales of the great Hawaiian surf goddesses who were revered, and coveted, for their prowess. The struggle with body image and sense of self, even with the most accomplished women surfers, like Carissa Moore (whom she interviewed twice for her book). She digs into the gender wars in the lineup, with brilliant solutions for the onslaught of the three invaders: hotshots, visitors and groms. We delve into what it was like growing up in Hawaii in the surf scene of the 60s and 70s, the Tonngโ€™s gang of boys who encouraged and protected her, being marginalized, alternately dropped in on and mentored by famous watermen, being nearly beaten up, and being cheered. What else? Pro surfing, friendships, harrowing moments, pioneers, life. And, being accidentally barreled. Mindy talked to countless women, famous and not, for her book. Their stories are now woven into hers, and ours. Donโ€™t miss this episode!

    Buy the book: https://mutualpublishing.com/product/surfing-sisterhood-hawaii/

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    Other references:

    Surf Girls Hawaii on Amazon Prime

    Important movies about the history of Hawaiian surf (though NOT womenโ€™s surf)

    Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau

    Waterman (The story of Duke Kahanomoku)

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  • One of the joys of women flocking to the water is how we are learning to cheer for one another. (I know, some of us, ahem, are still working on this on particular days and in particular conditions.) This is NOT something we are raised with, cheering for other women, especially successful ones. We come up against our own competitive feelings (no one should be smart, pretty AND talented), as well as the constant messaging that women athletes are "less than" by the misogynist (yes, I said it) sports industry. I got extra fired up about the inequities still in action for pro women surfers while listening to the last two episodes of The Double Up podcast, about the attempt to keep women from winning prize money, the ensuing coup spontaneously launched by pro Lucy Small (yas, girl!) and, then...the fallout. More than anything, I want to inspire us to watch and support women's pro surfing! In this episode, I walk through the whys, and also the HOW'S of watching women in the World Surf League. Let's get our girls!

    Show Notes:

    Listen to The Double Up Episodes 54 & 55 about the Kirra Longboard Classic

    Links to my 7-part series on Why (And How) to Watch Women's Surfing in the Olympics (principles apply to all pro women's surfing)

    Watch at worldsurfleague.com website and app, on Facebook, and on YouTube

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    IG @dropping_in_to_power

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  • โ€œTo be in the water like this is to be in movement to a musical note, it is to be one with color while painting, to be with a line while drawing.โ€ From the upcoming, Break.

    Dr. Stephanie Han, Korean-American author, educator, speaker and self-proclaimed โ€œbad surferโ€ came to surfing with a dream - to stop the splintering of her family. Instead, the ocean exposed the jagged, reef-like edges, of her marriage, and herself. Though her relationship with water has been complexโ€”the haunting of a childhood near-drowning, years of phobia, and a hella long learning curve to swimโ€”the ocean finally called her home, becoming an integral part of her story, and her life. Through the sublime and the savage, surfing is teaching her to listen to her body, a place once ignored by her powerful mind. Stephโ€™s writing, like her speaking, is ferocious, visceral, intentional, and empowering. As a producer for Hawaii Pubic Radioโ€™s The Conversation, and writer of her Substack, Woman, Warrior, Writer, she showcases brilliant women who are authoring their lives. And for those who have not found their voice, she teaches. You can find her eviscerating, award-winning short stories Swimming In Hong Kong, on her website. And be on the lookout for her upcoming book, Break (excerpted above) where she shares her (surf-laced) divorce story, and teaches women to write their own. You will want to cheer for Steph, yourself, and all women after this episode!

    Website: drstephaniehan.com IG @drstephaniehan
    Drstephaniehan.substack.com

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    IG @dropping_in_to_power

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  • Melissa Volker found a way to obsess about surfing in any conditions--by obsessing about writing about surfing! A mid-life blooming writer and water woman from South Africa, Melissaโ€™s delicious fiction blends โ€œsurf noirโ€ with โ€œenvironmental romance suspense.โ€ (Check out the addictive Shadow Flicker!) In our pod, we chat about the coastal topography and bathymetry of South Africaโ€™s breaks (get out your pencils) and she indulges my obsession with South African sharks. (Did you know you can get a gig as a Shark Spotter in Cape Town?) The South African waters are wild and intimidating, and though she grew up learning to paddle on flat water in an estuary, the ocean felt menacing to her well into her 40s. She still considers herself one of the most frightened surfers in her lineup, but she has braved sharks, orcas (!!!) and kilometers of open water on paddleboards, SUPโ€™s and longboards. She credits a community group focused on supporting women for getting her off the beach and into the lineup. She also finds inspiration, and courage, in books and courses on surfing, the ocean, and, yes, sharks. Recognizing how her own life has transformed from surfing, feeling โ€œolder, but stronger, happier, braver, and stokedโ€ she created Saltwater Sisters with her BFF to share their love and stoke and to empower other women to experience the joy they have found themselves. Melisa wraps up with one of my fave pieces of advice so far: โ€œGet to know the ocean, because not every day is your day.โ€

    Mentions:

    Shadow Flicker by Melissa Volker

    Stoked by Chris Bertish

    https://melissaavolker.com/

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  • Lena Siebertz, founder of Cold Water Sirens, not only braves near-freezing conditions, but relishes them. In temps as low as 37F/2.7C, Lena is forging a community of feminist surfers in Northern Germany and Denmark to transform surf culture beyond the old competitive paradigm, using cold water as part of the reset. Lena and I bonded over surfing head injuries earlier this year, sharing our progress as our stitches healed and trauma ebbed. We found the true meaning of community! Lena and her surf grrrl gang are creating something truly unique in their gatherings - including systemic coaching, cold water therapy, and even Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu! Starting surfing as an adult, Lena withstood early pummelings from the surf, her board, and heartless instructors. Her call to the ocean overpowered her fear, and galvanized her to support others in a non-competitive, feminist exploration of surf and community. Fueled by her background as an artist, producer of a techno festival, and generally totally cool chick, Cold Water Sirens is expanding the surf gathering experience and creating something totally fresh and resetting.

    Never miss an episode! Sign up for the Dropping In To Power Newsletter here.

    Follow Lena @coldwatersirens on IG and the crew:
    @beitskek
    @kates.surfyoga
    @patrizia_co.z
    @fine.longboarding

    Festival: Nation of Gondwana (https://www.instagram.com/nation_of_gondwana_pyonen/)

    Anna's Systemic Coaching Webpage: (https://www.vanlifecoaching.de / https://www.instagram.com/van_lifecoaching/ )

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  • โ€œIf I didnโ€™t have this fear, what could be better?โ€ Jade Chang Sheppard has made it her mission to inspire women to ask and answer that question. On the surface, she seems to have fear *licked*. She built her own fortune in her 20s, birthed 3 gorgeous kids, had a successful marriage *and* divorce. She redesigned her life during a โ€œmid-life awakening,โ€ to include traveling the world to learn to surf. But it took an ayahuasca journey and surf epiphany to bring Jade to a new threshold, and you will want to follow her off that cliff. Jadeโ€™s epiphanies turn into living workshops that she shares with the world! She bought a boutique hotel in Nicaragua (www.malibupopoyo.com) and turned it into an all-inclusive surfing heaven. She launched Scarletsociety.com, a multi-media miracle of phenomenal women speaking truth about sex, health and money for women over 40 (check out their peri-menopause guide). Jade also muses on non-monogamy (we take a pause in the early part of the podcast, but donโ€™t worry, we come back to it!) sexual experimentation, power, and freedom. For a surfalogue, she coversthe Maldives, Chicama, Kellyโ€™s Wave Pool, Bali, Nicaragua, CostaRicaโ€”girlfriend gets things done. One of the best things we get to hear from this accomplished, striving, powerful, self-realized woman, especially for those bad days: surfing is the hardest thing in the world to do. Get it, Jade!

    Checkout the articles, podcasts and more at www.scarletsociety.com

    Promise, you will want to stay at: www.malibupopoyo.com

    This is the article Jade mentions by Dr. Stephanie Han (surfer and future pod guest): https://scarletsociety.com/why-do-so-many-women-in-this-country-fear-divorce/ BTW, I recommend reading everything you can find by the brilliant Dr. Han, especially her book of short stories https://drstephaniehan.com/swimming-in-hong-kong/

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  • Are you a tasty treat for a shark during your period? Finally an answer to the question that plagues every woman surfer, at least once a month! Lifeguard Jessie Kilgour has a pretty strong take on the subject, but youโ€™ll have to get to the end to find out. Youโ€™ll want to, though, as Jessie brings a fresh take on everything from where she surfs, to what she surfs, and how she lives her life around the water. Anchored in the Outer Banks, manager of megalodon Real Watersports school operation, Jessie speaks kitesurfing, windsurfing, foiling, water safety, and soul surfing. Her dedication and general good juju scored her a gig in โ€œthe dream she didnโ€™t know she had,โ€ as one of few women to serve as a surf guide at fabled Tavarua. Oh, and being mistaken for Paige Alms. We talk story about kite surfing, getting tangled and getting free, the challenges of foiling, surfing the Outer Banks, and, of course, what it was like to keep people safe while surfing, hello, Cloudbreak! We deep dive into specific surfer chick stuff too. On the lighter side: how do you manage tampon shortages on remote island surf trips? On the heavier: the pressures of whether to have kids in the upper 30s, and how a womanโ€™s life and passions are impacted by whatever choices she makes. Jessie is a soft-spoken warrior. She says a lot in the spaces between, like underplaying a back injury she manages on a daily basis, which only amplifies how committed she is as an athlete, a teacher and a water woman. And then, she tells you the truth about sharks

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  • What a start to Season 2! I had a serious surf accident last week with a major head trauma - so I thought, why not do a mini-podcast with a concussion!? This is a little "bonus episode" of me sharing the blow-by-blow of what happened, and the epiphany I had on the other side of the miracle.

    Coming soon: I have four *amazing* women lined up for podcasts that will be dropping over the next couple of months, as soon as I am fully back in action. Can't wait to share them with you!

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  • Junko Yamasaki went on holiday to Australia from her native Japan at 20 years old, and never looked back. Breaking away from her cultureโ€™s traditional expectations, she trailblazed a life fueled by curiosity, compassion and courage. Over her 52 years, she has embodied many aspects of both personal and professional womanhood - daughter, sister, wife, step-mother, daughter-in-law, sister-in-law, aunty, friend, migrant, client, translator, catโ€™s mum, counselor, and transformational coach. At 49 1/2, she paddled through her lifelong fear of the ocean, including the trauma of near drowning, and, not even knowing how to swim, took up surfing, which she credits for teaching her how to truly take responsibility for her own life. Through surfing, she navigated long Covid, menopause, and marital challenges with grace and humor. Junko brings such wisdom and joy to her practice of surfing! She also shares some meditation ninja tricks that help keep her grateful in the surf. Listen to Junko!

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  • Starting at 43 in Boston (!!!), Surfer Stacey Mac rocketed into a pro career as a SUP surfer, defining diehard as she chased hurricanes across state lines to hone her skills. A natural adrenaline junkie, Stacey funneled her focus into her newfound passion, creating a career as a competitor, judge and instructor and moving full time to Costa Rica. But there was a shadow side to her success. In this episode, Stacey shares for the first time how bipolar disorder contributed to that hyperfocus and relentless energy level. And now, choosing to manage her condition with less volatility, sheโ€™s learning to deal with the middles, and the mehโ€™s. We also dig into that verboten subjectโ€”menopauseโ€”and the specific challenges we face as surfers, like weight gain and lack of motivation, along with the gifts of I-donโ€™t-give-a-fuck, and no more periods! Stacey also shares real-world advice about surfing as a bigger woman, her own struggles, and her stoke. Learn more about Stacey on Facebook and Instagram at @surferstaceymac.

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  • Jenni had become expert at many sports, vocations, missions, but, at 55, living in Hawaiโ€™i, she was still ruled by an old story of โ€œI canโ€™t surf, Iโ€™m too old to learn, itโ€™s never going to happen.โ€ When Covid hit, she found herself surrendered to the call she had been hearing her whole life, breaking through the fear and doubt, and committing. And did she ever commit! Following a surf epiphany, she uprooted her life, scooped up her teenage son, turned over her home and business, and bailed Hawaiโ€™i for nearly a year in Costa Rica. After a brief return to the islands, she decided to sell everything she owns and charge back into the unknown, pura vida style. Jenni is one of my personal sheroes for modeling how to jump through what she calls โ€œwindows of opportunities,โ€ being willing to be uncomfortable, and absolutely going for it. We also had a lot of laughs in this episode - hope you enjoy!

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  • Elizabeth has overcome so many obstacles on her sheroโ€™s journey to becoming the Curvy Surfer Girl - a harrowing childhood, very real near drowning, a landlocked life, and zero representation of surfers who look like her. She has not only returned from her ordeal with shining success, but she has brought back an elixir--her gift of inspiring and uplifting women! In this interview, she gets absolutely raw about her struggles, especially the negative voices that nearly killed her dream, and what exactly she does to work through them. She bares her heart and soul with spine-chilling moments of her call to the sea despite true and real terror of the ocean. And she absolutely ROCKS her joy. Elizabeth speaks as the voice of the Curvy Surfer Girl movement, but you will feel as if she speaks for you. Her honesty, courage, commitment, and humility is deeply inspiring.

    Connect with Elizabeth on IG at @curvysurfergirl or www.curvysurfergirl.com, follow inspired items now and her new full line launching in Spring on www.Jolyn.com, and listen to more about Elizabeth's near drowning story on Katelyn Parson's Body Truth podcast.

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  • McKenzie Clark is a self-made waterwoman who headed to Kona on her own at the tender age of 18--with a mission. Her life since has been a testimonial of courage, adventure, humility, and badassery. From solo adventures around the world with a backpack and a Lonely Planet book, to surviving a shark attack, to getting her captainโ€™s license in her 40s, Mckenzie has consistently modeled a life unconstrained by fear. An accomplished surfer, she shares deeply about her victories and vulnerabilities in the water. Her willingness to cop to her own competitiveness took us into the deepest conversation weโ€™ve had on the pod about etiquette, hierarchies, what is really going on in the lineup, and what the future might hold as more women enter the lineup. Her adventures are so inspiring, don't be surprised if you are booking your next, or first, surf trip before you even finish the episode!

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  • Surfer momsโ€”current and futureโ€”this podcast is for you! My guest is a newly minted mama fitness trainer, and the founder of Santa Cruz's chapter of Join Surfing Moms, a non-profit that helps moms get their much-needed waves. Sara's story is so important for moms to hear! She grew up surfing, but even with all that experience, she lost her confidence once adulthood, and, especially, motherhood, set in. The loss of her surfer self rattled her sense of identity, though it took years for the impact of its loss to register. Sara shares her epiphany, her moment of commitment, and the steps she took to bring surfing back into her life. And those steps were not easy! For moms, especially with small kids, surfing comes with extra challenges, like juggling breastfeeding with tides, wind, and swell, and the guilt that accompanies doing anything for yourself. Sara tried it in on her own, but knew she needed more support. When she could not find a chapter of (Hawaii-based, Australian-inspired) Join Surfing Moms in her own community, she started one! Saraโ€™s story will make you feel seen, heard, understood, and fired up!

    Visit her website, californiaactivemom.com. And check out @joinsurfingmoms on IG (you will love them) and their website, surfingmoms.org, to find a chapter near you, or start one!

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  • Gabi Del Rosario entered the sea in a shroud of grief and emerged like the proverbial butterfly from her chrysalis! This Manila city girl unexpectedly found herself in Covid lockdown on the Philippine coast, where everything about her life transformed. At first, surfing was not even in her consciousness, but the sudden death of her father drew her into the ocean, and ultimately, the waves. She caught the stoke, and surfed with appropriate newbie passion, meaning a LOT! She and her partner began to feel guilty - surfing day and night, all by themselves in the lineup, until they noticed the gleeful kids riding the shorebreak on scraps of wood from their fathersโ€™ fishing boats. Soon, they were divvying up their extra boards for the village kids, and a vision began to take hold. Recognizing a serious environmental issue, they started a program where they swapped boards with the kids in exchange for beach cleanup. It caught on fast! As they drew closer to the kids and community, they realized the children in this humble fishing village needed more than just surfboards. They needed protection from calamity when nature disrupted their fishing livelihood, and support for education lost in the lockdown. Gabi and her partner founded Alon and Araw (Waves and Sun), an amazing grassroots program that encourages personal development through surf, educates kids in protecting and enjoying the ocean, and helps families with emergency food and educational support. Gabiโ€™s passion was always to focus on girls, who are often overlooked, especially in sports. After one year, their program is 80% female! Gabiโ€™s dream is to make Zambales a hotspot for women surfers, empowering these young girls to see all that is possible for them in life. She's ready to welcome you with open arms! Find more about Alon and Araw at https://alonandaraw.org/, on IG at @alon.and.araw, FB at alon & araw club zambales.

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  • After 13 years, Regina left the surfer's paradise she had created in the mythical blue waters of Kona to answer another kind of deep blue callโ€”becoming a police officer! In her 40s! On the mainland! In a city! This courageous life choice required her stepping away from the relationship she had cultivated with the water as a surfer, free diver and paddler. Oh, and girrllll, speaking of relationships, we get real on those moments when having a surfing partner can feel like a match NOT made in heaven! Reginaโ€™s journey of surfing beautifully mirrors her transformation into the woman she was ready to become, as that last wave deposited her, perfectly poised, for the next big set of her life. She allows us in to witness the heartbreak of her mermaid gills drying up, and the power she has grown to nurture herself in any surroundings. We also dig into what it was like to learn to surf in the reefy, urchin-y, shallow, lava-rocky breaks of Kona, and we both get honest about the pluses and minuses of more women - really, more people - in the lineup. (And, don't worry, she is still getting some waves - her sets are just a little further apart.)

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